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Thursday, 10 October 2013

Choosing The Proper Finish For Your Woodworking Project

by: Megan Cherry

16,000+ Projects and Wood Working Plans If you've finished your woodworking project, congratulations. Now, what type of finish do you want to put on it so that not only will you protect your hard work for years to come, but also enhance its innate beauty? No matter what you choose, you have to choose the right finish so that your hard work will be as beautiful finished as it was unfinished. Choosing the wrong finish can make your project look less beautiful than it should.

Well, here are some things to consider. You'll need to choose a finishing product such as a varnish, lacquer, shellac, or polyurethane; you might also need putty, wood filler, wax or polish. In addition, you'll need to choose from water or solvent bases for the finishing products. Which to choose?

It might be confusing, but once you know what you're doing, you can group these rather simply so that it's much easier to choose. Once you know what each group's properties are, you can make a better and more informed choice about what you'll need for your woodworking project.

Let's begin with stains. When you apply a stain to wood, you add color to the wood without covering up the grain. This is a basic difference between staining or painting something.

Stains that are pigmented are made when a pigment is combined with a liquid. Usually, the pigment itself is in a dry colored powder before it is mixed with the liquid. The liquid itself includes a binder that helps the pigment stick to the wood surface. There's also a carrier that works with the binder. The pigment does not dissolve in the binder, but are suspended in the liquid. In earlier times, you could purchase the colored powders to make pigments up; these were usually available in such colors as yellow, red, or burned charcoal, and were made from different types of clay and crushed rock.

If a stain is a "dye stain," it's physically and chemically different than a pigment stain is. Dye stains coat just like pigment stains do, but dye stains dissolve in the carrier instead of being suspended in it. Because a dye stain dissolves, it can deeply and easily penetrate the wood surface, unlike a pigment stain. However, the dye stain particles are very small and somewhat translucent. This, in turn, allows the wood grain to show through the dye stain.

One problem with stains of either kind, either pigments or dye, is that oftentimes, their color does not apply evenly, especially on softer woods like cherry, pine or birch. With these softer woods, you'll want to stain a piece of scrap wood first to see if uneven coloring or blotchiness will be a problem. If the stain appears to blotch or otherwise not appear uniform on your test piece, you have other options you can try. For example, you can switch to a gel stain or a water-based stain instead. Both of these types of stains only penetrate the wood ever so slightly and can give you a much more even stain color.



Megan Cherry writes for http://www.pegandrail.com If you are looking for a high quality well made coat rack step in and check us out, we manufacture a complete line of wall mounted coat rack from a shaker peg style coat rack to a modern wall coat rack with brass hooks or satin nickel for the brushed stainless steel look we even have a very modern looking hand rub white lacquer coat racks to go along with our line of Oak, cherry and Maple wall coat racks, we can even manufacture you a custom size coat rack or even ship you a coat rack that is unfinished.


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The Fundamentals Of Wood Working Books Revealed

by: William Morgan

When you've got an interest in purchasing working books, you may merely sign on to sites which provide woodworking reading material lists. Using these website you can shop on the Internet, look at reviews, and also it is very convenient to have it delivered to your home.

Such wood working books have information about decorating house by wood working. If you have any questions about the application of your wood working skills, you can always go back to the book. Books are a standard reference that are used even by professionals who have been in business for years.

These books offer a great deal of quality advice covering a number of wood working subjects. Prepared by experienced woodworkers with numerous years in the industry. Well if you are working with wood but don't know enough about finishing an item then you can use finishing books as a reference. Difficulties arise even for carpenters making wooden furniture. In this case, wood working books can help you.

Creating a beautiful item that will last for generations is as easy as picking up a few wood working books for tips and how-tos. Furniture that you make will last longer if the joints holding them together are constructed well. You can create sturdy and long lasting joints by reading the explanations in these books. Books can bequeath a legacy of craft, expertise, and finesse that can enable you to construct furniture of outstanding quality.

You will be provided with latest information on wood processing machinery in it. One should manage tools correctly, especially the cutting tools. Every cut is important to the stability of the finished piece. These books cover techniques for utilizing a vast array of highly specific, custom tools. Making furniture from templates is included in the fine wood working books.

Woodworkers must take help of the wood working books if they want to hone their skills in various projects. From making special bowls and boxes, to toys and hat stand, whatever project you may take up. Books can help you to get the best results, whatever your projects may be.

Books offer valuable tips on proper woodworking techniques. Stabbing, working, sliding, and the sweep are fundamental wood carving cuts that can be learned through this.

When you wish to develop molding and shaping wood item skills, do your reading about them. You can find in them practice exercises to help you improve your current skill level.

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Wednesday, 9 October 2013

Woodworking Contest - Whirligig Wars Winners


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ASMR Working with Wood 1 - Wooden Blocks


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How To Correct Small Blemishes And Defects In Your Woodworking Project

by: Megan Cherry

While it is common for wood to have defects like splits, cracks and knots, you may notice blemishes in your finished project like scratches, dents and gouges. These blemishes are inflicted on the wood from the machines you use to make your project. Even if you're making a simple piece like a pair of bookends, you'll want to remove these blemishes if you want your woodworking project to look its best. If you're making a larger piece, it becomes even more important to remove these defects.

Wood putty is available in many colors and forms, and is the easiest method of repairing gouges and other small defects on the wood's surface. While wood putty of all kinds are basically applied the same, there can be a difference in your application depending on the wood you are using. For example, if your wood has an open grain with bigger knots and large cracks, that will require a different treatment because the space that needs to be filled is larger. Dents can usually be steamed out, while shallow dents and scratches may disappear under the sander. Sometimes a piece will split accidentally while you are routing. If you can find the chip, it may work to glue it in place and hold it securely by wrapping the piece in masking tape. If you can't find the chip, it may be possible to make a new piece to glue in place. If possible, try to cut the replacement for the chip from the same board so the color and texture will match.

When applying putty, you will need a putty knife or a flathead screwdriver. Using the end of your tool, apply the putty to the hole in the wood. Pack in as much putty as possible, and remember to leave the putty above the surface of the wood... it will shrink as it dries. When it is completely dry, you can do a little light sanding to bring the repair even with the wood surface. Be sure and sand it the same way you did the rest of the piece so the texture matches. If the repair needs to be made in a very obvious place on your project, there are a few guidelines you may want to follow. If the piece will be finished without any stain and you intend to finish it with only a clear coat or an oil finish, it is possible to make your own putty out of glue and sawdust from your project. You may also mix the sawdust with an epoxy. Epoxy dries very quickly and won't shrink like glue. If you plan to stain your project, you will need to use a water-based putty or wood filler. If you're lucky, the putty will match or dry slightly lighter than your wood. If this happens you can always touch it up as needed. Or, you can add color to the filler before you put it on your piece. If you choose to do this, check on a piece of scrap wood first to see if it matches.



Megan Cherry writes for http://www.pegandrail.com If you are looking for a high quality well made coat rack step in and check us out, we manufacture a complete line of wall mounted coat rack from a shaker peg style coat rack to a modern wall coat rack with brass hooks or satin nickel for the brushed stainless steel look we even have a very modern looking hand rub white lacquer coat racks to go along with our line of Oak, cherry and Maple wall coat racks, we can even manufacture you a custom size coat rack or even ship you a coat rack that is unfinished.


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Tuesday, 8 October 2013

Power Tool Magic - How the Right Tools Can Make Your Life Better

by: Michiel Van Kets

Whether you're a professional builder or carpenter, a seasoned amateur do-it-yourselfer or just someone who wants to handle his own home repairs and renovations, you'll appreciate that having the right power and hand tools is essential. Power tools are vital for quickly and effectively handling those jobs around the home and garden.

The term 'power tools' covers a wide range of implements from a simple electrical screwdriver up to a chainsaw. In fact if there's a job to be done in the home or the garden, there's probably a power tool to handle it.

The type of tools you'll need depends on the tasks at hand. For general home use, most people require hand tools for working with wood and masonry. The most important of these are drills and saws along with such items as planers and sanders.

Let's look at each of them in turn.

Drills are a key implement for a whole range of tasks from tightening screws to drilling holes in wood, metal and concrete. You'll need one of these for doing any kind of construction or repair work.

Power drills come in many types. Examples are right angle drills to allow you to work in tight spaces and hammer drills which feature a percussive action. A hammer drill, as the name suggests, is a drill with a hammering action. This action works to permit quicker, easier drilling by pounding the surface to be drilled like a jackhammer. It's mainly used to drill holes in stone or masonry.

The choice of drill bit depends on the task and it's a good idea to buy them as a set. Make sure the set contains a bit that can handle the material you'll be dealing with.

The next major power tool is the saw. Saws are separated into hand-held or table mounted. Table saws are recommended if you need to cut a lot of wood. They're ideal for handling plywood sheets, beams and planks.

Here are the main types of saws.

The mitre saw is a useful implement for cutting around the sides of your wood and other materials. It's perfect for making a quick, accurate crosscut in work pieces. Most are relatively small and portable. Blade sizes range from eight to 12 inches.

The jigsaw is perfect for getting round cuts and square cut outs used for cutting curves, such as stenciled designs, into wood or other materials. It allows the craftsman more artistic scope than other types of saw. In fact they were used to make the first jigsaw puzzles and hence the name. They are usually hand saws consisting of a handle attached to a thin blade.

Then there are circular saws which are mainly used for cutting wood. In fact, they can cut cleanly through a wide range of materials.

For external use, cutting trees and branches, for example, there are chain saws. These are usually driven by an internal combustion engine.

Other power tools for dealing with wood include planers and sanders which work to smooth the surface of the material. Also known as a jointer, a planer is used to get a flat surface along a board's length. A sander uses a sandpaper attachment to smooth wood.

One choice you'll need to make with power tools is whether to get corded or cordless. Cordless power tools offer the ultimate flexibility and freedom; you're not constrained by power lines. However, they do tend to heavier owing to battery weight and they're generally less powerful than the corded models. They usually take rechargeable batteries. It's a smart idea to have fully charged spare pack or two on hand to make sure your work is not delayed by the battery running out.

If you want to acquire the latest power tools and hand tools, you can find the country's best range of quality tools just a few mouse clicks away. By going online, you can find a vast range of tools from major reputable manufacturers such as A.E.G, Bosch, Stanley and Black & Decker to mention just a few.

Buying your power tools online ensures you get to choose from the widest range and get the best prices. Most online dealers offer free UK delivery for orders over a certain amount, usually 100 pounds.

Michiel Van Kets writes articles for Online Power Tools, a leading Power Tools sellers in the UK. Browse for hand tools, accessories, drill bits, and more. Working with a team of SEO consultants, they aim to provide the best online shopping experience. http://www.i-fluid.co.uk/

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How to build a workbench - (Part 1) Laminating the top - with Paul Sellers


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Bushcraft/survival/ green wood working-Making a Log Mule with Firefox Bushcraft.


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Monday, 7 October 2013

Where Do You Find Ideas and Plans For Woodworking?

by: Mohd Hizer

There are a lot of various places where you can find ideas and plans for woodworking. Here, I shall provide you with useful information about woodworking plans.

If you have just recently taken up woodworking as your hobby, then it is recommended that you start off with simpler projects. But first, you should get yourself some plans. For woodworking, plans are very important. You can choose to either go for pre-designed woodworking plans or free plans. Whichever you choose they will assist you in perfecting the skills which you have learned.

If you choose to use free plans rather than buying woodworking plans, then you must consider a few things in advance. Here are the things that you must consider:

1. Search for plans which not only provide you with drawings which show every construction stage of an item, but shall also provide you pictures of what the item should look like upon the completion of the project. This will help you to know where exactly you should be at every stage and how the item will look like.

2. Do not pick plans where the instructions given read something like a novel. For your information, these types of woodworking plans will only make the entire step by step method of constructing something easy become so much more tricky. Also you do not want plans which read just like your shopping list.

3. Avoid choosing incomplete plans. For your woodworking projects, you need to have plans which provide you with the relevant tools list that you will require throughout your entire project. You should also avoid plans which do not specify what materials you need for your woodworking project. What you need with your woodworking project, is to be able to construct your item without having to stop working, simply because you found some particular items are missing.



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Sunday, 6 October 2013

COOL TOOLS Woodworking Full Season Episode with Chris Grundy (DIY Network)


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Lathe Woodworking Instruction - Everything You Have to Know

by: Mark Twinton

If it’s the first time you use lathe, it’s important for you to learn about lathe woodworking instruction. Although woodworking lathe isn’t a new tool in woodworking project, some people easily get hurt when using this tool. Thus, being well-informed about lathe woodworking instruction is important to prevent you getting hurt.

Best Way – In Person

Going to a trusted family member, friends, or even a craft club that may have a woodworking lathe is the best way to study lathe woodworking instruction. Besides, there are some community colleges present woodworking classes that you should check. Being well-informed to use the lathe woodworking is important if you want to save yourself from any injury.

Don’t ever nag a local woodworker (even one you have hired) to give you lathe woodworking instruction. They have enough to do, and may not have insurance to cover any possible injuries you may get on their property.

Instructional DVDs

You can get how-to DVDs for just about anything these days, including lathe woodworking instruction. Truly costly professional-grade lathes will come with their own DVDs. This will give you a general idea of what to expect and how to safely operate the lathe. It isn’t as good as hands-on instruction, but at least it’s better than nothing.

If you have a VCR, you might be able to find woodworking videos as well as those that may center on woodworking lathes. Although videos are not really being made anymore, you may be able to come across them in your library, a hardware or woodworking supply internet.

The Instructions That Come With the Tool

Lathe woodworking instruction can be definitely helpful in doing your project. You might want know the direction how to use and understand the buttons to activate the lathe. There should be lots of buttons that you need to know the functions of them.

If you got your lathe used and there are no instructions with it, you can always check the Internet to find if there is a copy somewhere. Check with the company's website. They sometimes keep archives of the instruction manuals for their equipment.

If you plan to buy the second hand lathe from a garage sale or a flea market, finding the previous owner is important for you. It’s aimed that the previous owner will show you how to work it. If they don’t know the way, you may end up think that they actually never want to learn any lathe woodworking instruction and they get frustrated when use it.

Thus, does the above-mentioned information still not satisfy your need in knowing about lathe woodworking instruction? Explore more the suitable information herein!



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Friday, 4 October 2013

Woodworking Extras For Your Wooden Poker Chip Case That Take It Up A Notch

by: Sven Asnien

If you are passionate about poker, and are looking to build or purchase a custom chip case to house your chips, consider incorporating a few woodworking extras to take it up a notch. Here are a few design recommendations that will make an ordinary wooden chip case extraordinary.

Use Solid Wood not Veneer

When designing a poker chip case, you have to take into account the weight of the chips, which can approach 50 lbs for a 1000 poker chip case. The advantages of using solid wood include durability, strength, and practicality. There are also numerous exotic wood types to choose from.

In woodworking, veneer refers to thin slices of wood, usually thinner than 3 mm (1/8 inch), that are typically glued onto core panels (typically, wood, particle board or medium density fiberboard) to produce flat panels for cabinets, parquet floors and furniture. Veneer is cost effective and strong, however, it can blister, delaminate, or peel back at the edges. Also, since veneer is glued to a plywood or medium density fiberboard substrate the edges must be covered.

Hardwood plywood veneer selection is often limited, and you may have to special-order and still be limited to a dozen or so of the most common wood types. Veneer plywood is usually not available in exotic woods. Veneer panels also can vary in thickness from their stated dimension due to the foreign origin of much of this material and the resulting metric thickness measurement. U.S.-made hardwood plywood has face veneers averaging 1/30? in thickness. Some species, such as black walnut, are sliced thinner, to 1/32?. Foreign veneers are thinner still and can be tough to saw without splintering, and sand without destroying. The variation in thickness also impacts your joints. If you really want a good-fitting joint, the solution requires extra work. You need to mill the plywood edge that fits in the dado of your project.

Use Dovetail Joints not Butt Joints

Joinery involves joining together pieces of wood, to create furniture, structures, toys, and other items. The strength, flexibility, and toughness of wooden joints derive from the properties of the joining materials and from how they are used in the joints. Therefore, different joinery techniques are used to meet differing requirements. When designing a poker chip case, you again have to take into account the weight of the chips. The joints have to be strong, or the case will fall apart under the weight.

A butt joint is a joinery technique in which two pieces of wood are joined by simply butting them together. The butt joint is the simplest joint to make since it merely involves cutting the wood to the appropriate length and butting them together. It is also the weakest because it relies upon glue alone to hold it together. Because the orientation of the wood usually presents only an end grain to long grain gluing surface, the resulting joint is inherently weak.

A dovetail joint is a joint technique most commonly used in woodworking joinery. Noted for its resistance to being pulled apart (tensile strength), the dovetail joint is commonly used to join the sides of a drawer to the front. A series of pins cut to extend from the end of one board interlock with a series of tails cut into the end of another board. The pins and tails have a trapezoidal shape. Once glued, a wooden dovetail joint requires no mechanical fasteners.

Use a Polyurethane not Oil Finish

One thing to consider when finishing a wooden chip case is to use a chip friendly finish. Polyurethane or a non-soluble varnish is an ideal choice, as it does not stain or seep into your chips. You should especially avoid any type of Oil finish such as Tung or Danish oil, as these oils can penetrate into the clay poker chip over time.

Use Inlays to Step it Up a Notch

Inlay is a decorative technique of inserting pieces of colored materials into depressions in a base object to form patterns or pictures. Inlays frequently use wood veneer, but other materials like stone or shell may also be used.

Inlay differs from marquetry, a similar technique, in that marquetry is applied over an entire surface of an object, whereas inlay consists of small pieces inserted into cut spaces in the base material.

Inlay is frequently used in production of decorative furniture, where pieces of colored wood or metal are inserted into the veneer. Using this technique can create a one-of-a-kind piece suitable for display.

Use a Raised Panel or Glass Top

Adding a decorative lid to your poker chip case can also create a unique custom effect.

Frame and panel construction (also called "rail and stile") is a woodworking technique commonly used in the making of doors, wainscoting, and other decorative features for cabinets and furniture. The basic idea is to capture a 'floating' panel within a sturdy frame, as opposed to techniques like slab drawer fronts which are simply single pieces of material with exposed end grains. Usually, the panel is not glued to the frame - it is left to 'float' within it so that seasonal movement of the wood comprising the panel does not distort the frame or crack to wood.

The same technique can be used with a glass insert instead of a wood panel. The glass can be left clear to display of your chips, or etched with a decorative design or perhaps the name of your home casino.

So whether you are building or purchasing a custom wooden poker chip case to house your chips, consider incorporating these few little extras to take it up a notch and make your ordinary wooden case extraordinary.



Sven Asnien is an experienced woodworker, born and raised in Cleveland, Ohio. He began his woodworking career at Wooster College with theatrical carpentry, building sets and props for a traveling theatrical group. He continued to perfect his woodworking skills after college, working primarily on built-in cabinetry, wainscoting, and high-end finish carpentry. Sven establish Oz Woodworking to combine his love of woodworking and poker.


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Indoor, outdoor, large, small, simple or detailed, there is a wood working plan for you! In just a few minutes you'll be able to get your hands on 16,000 wood working projects and plans. This isn't your regular DIY. Everything is laid out perfectly for each project from start to finish. This is unlike anything you've seen before. Watch the Free Video to see how
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Wednesday, 2 October 2013

Anatomy Of A Woodworking Project

by: Skip Evans

Have you ever thought about the process from start to finish of a woodworking project. There is a lot more involved in the process than you think. Most of us skip thru each process not really thinking about how each step affects the overall project.

1. Fill a need

I believe that in all things we do, we want to fill a need. Otherwise, why do them. The need may be basic or secondary. We also may not understand which need is which. The need may be materialistic. You or someone you know, needs a kitchen table, so you build one. But, is that really the basic need? I doubt it. I believe the basic need is more primal than that. Just as we need food, shelter, and clothing, everyone needs an avenue for self expression and a sense of accomplishment. Otherwise, we would buy the kitchen table. It would, in the end, certainly be cheaper.

2. Getting an idea

Where do you get the idea for your next project? Clues are all around us. Sometimes, ideas come from some of the most unlikely places. One word in a discussion can trigger an idea. For some, it may be a specific problem they are trying to solve. Others may be lucky and have the eye of an artist and have the ability to visualize an object. I will admit that I am not an original thinker. My ideas usually come via a request from a customer or the desire to change something I have seen to make it my own.

3. From mind to paper

The next challenge is to move this great idea from your mind to paper. My first step is usually a sketch. Then, there is a discussion with the customer. All projects have a customer!! It may be you, a loved one, a neighbor, or if you are really lucky, a bonafide cash carrying customer who is willing to PAY you for your hard work. When there is an agreement on the sketch, my next step is a full size drawing. If at all possible, do not skip this step. There was a time when I felt that 1/4 or 1/2 scale would suffice. But, after completing some full scale drawings,I found it much more comforting to know that I have the exact measurements to work with.

4. Selection and preparation of materials

This is an area where I believe much time and thought needs to be utilized to get it right. The last thing you want, is to complete a project, and then realize the wrong materials were selected. Aesthetics, project location/use, material strength, the mix of materials, and grain are just a few of the things that need to be considered. This is also another area where the customer MUST be consulted. For traditional furniture, there are any number of books and other publications that can be used.For an original idea, the world is your pallette. For the first part of material preparation, I use software. This software is called Cutlist Pro. There is a version available to the hobbyist that costs less than $100.00, and you will quickly recoup that cost. By entering your inventory of materials into the program and then creating an accurate cut list, the program will design the appropriate cutting procedure using parametes you setup. Depending upon my needs, I will use either the mode that sets up the most efficient use of material or the mode that sets up the easiest cuts. The first step in the materials preparation process is to bring the material into your shop and let it acclimate for a couple weeks. When you start cutting material, please, cut all material at least 1/4 inch over size and a few inches longer than required. There are many stresses inside a piece of wood and when sawn, these stresses are relieved. You may not see it right away. Let the material sit overnight. You may be surprised at just how much a piece of wood can move. I would also suggest that you consider cutting some extra material to the same dimensions as your parts. There is always the possibility of an error somewhere in the process. Having dimensioned lumber available will reduce your stress level. Please DO NOT get rid of your scraps until the project is complete.

5. Preparation of equipment.

This is one of the most important, but most neglected parts of the project. If your equipment is not maintained and calibrated properly, you will encounter many moments of great frustration. Are your cutting tools sharp? Dull cutting tools cause many of the blood letting accidents in the shop. Inattention to the task at hand has caused many accidents. Before starting a new project, take the time to ensure that your saws are calibrated properly, so you can get that 90 or 45 degree cut exact. Make sure that cross cut sleds are exact. On mine, the thickness of a piece of painters tape makes the difference between failure and success.

6. Execution

This is the fun part. It is also the part where the most mistakes can be made, in material and in you. Never ever work when you are tired, or are unable to give your full attention to the task at hand. Missing body parts are not worth it. As the old saying goes, measure twice and cut once. Make sure you cut on the correct side of that inch mark. It is extremely easy to turn a 5 1/4" cut into a 4 3/4" cut. Believe me, I have done it.

Take time with your tools. Do not push them beyond their capability. Wixey makes an angle gauge that will increase your accuracy when setting up a saw to cut any desired angle. Try to use the same ruler throughtout the project. Minute differences in rulers can cause problems when trying to put a project together.. Do not get in a hurry to start gluing things together. Always do a dry fit to make sure things line up properly. Make sure your joints are not too tight. Glue will make a tenon expand so it is almost impossible to insert it into its mortise. Making mortise and tenon joints properly, takes time and patience. I usually cut my tenons thick and use a rabbet plane to get them to the proper thickness. Make sure you have plenty of clamps, but use them judiciously. Improper use of clamps can rack a project out of square. When it is time for the glue-up, take some time to mask areas that may get unwanted glue on them. Try to use only the amount of glue required. Make every attempt to limit squeeze-out of excess glue. There is nothing worse than finding dried glue that will not take a stain. Remove the tape when the glue gets to a stiff consistancy.

7. Preparation for Staining and Finishing

This is one of the areas that most woodworkers hate to do. But, it is just as important as the construction portion of the project. This is what everyone is going to see. Using progressively finer grits of sandpaper, the wood needs to be sanded until no perceptible swirl marks are found. For most furniture, 220 grit is about a fine as you need to go during this step.

8. Staining and Finishing

The are many many different forms of stains and finishes. All have their pros and cons. Before applying a stain to your project, take time to test different products and processes on scrap wood of the same type as the project. Perform the complete finish process on each piece of scrap so you will KNOW what the project will look like when complete. After determining which product and process looks best, do not skip or change any part of the process used on the scrap, when it comes time to finish the project. Small differences in the finishing process can make a drastic change in the look of the complete project.

9. Post finish

Now it is time to really make your project shine. Do not get in a hurry to start this process. Wait until the finish is completely cured before starting this process. Some products will cure over night. Some can take weeks. You most likely will need to buff or polish your finish to get the silky smooth look and feel of the project surface. Most people will rub the surface of a project to get an impression of how well the finish was completed. There are many oils, powders, and polishes that will create that mirror finish often desired. Please read as many of the different finishing books and brochures as possible to get an understanding of the process.

Now go and show off your hard work to anyone who will listen. Enjoy the moment. Most projects will contain a flaw here and there. Do not point them out when showing off a piece. Most likely, you will be the only one that knows the flaw exists.

SE



My name is Skip Evans. I am a woodworker who enjoys sharing woodworking with others, especially the new woodworker who needs that little push to believe that "Yes you can".

http://www.my-wooden-creations.com


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Tuesday, 1 October 2013

Woodworking Tips - Selecting a Blade for a Table Saw


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What Woodworking Tools Are Right For You

by: Jeff Neilan

If you've officially gotten bitten by the woodworking bug, you'll soon be in the market for some woodworking tools.

But what kind of woodworking tools and how many?

The answer is dependent upon factors such as the style of woodworking, the type of wood you'll be working with, and, of course, your budget.

Where you live and the space that you have available in which to work can also affect the style of woodworking that you ultimately go with. Where you live may constrict you as to the space you have available or the noise level toleration, so you may not be able to have and use the biggest and most powerful of woodworking tools. If this is the case, your style may be one of strictly working with hand woodworking tools.

In the end however, if you're like most woodworkers, throughout the years you'll end up with a combination of woodworking tools from the large and powerful to those original hand tools that you grew up on when you started working with wood back in your apartment.

Another influencing factor when it comes to choosing the right woodworking tools for yourself is the style of furniture that you intend on building. One style of furniture will more than likely require few different types of tools over another style. This is why it's always a good idea to get yourself a good set of plans for the type of project you're considering.

Today the amount of woodworking tools that you can buy is limited only by your ability to be able to afford to buy them.

But before you run off and bust the bank buying woodworking tools, consider that woodworking isn't always about having the best tools. There is something to be said for developing your skills, your imagination, and problem solving without always having the best power tool to overcome every issue.

Remember there are just about as many ways to accomplish something in woodworking as there are tools on the market. In fact, most of the time when you think you're up against a limitation caused by your lack of tools... it's your imagination and self skills that will come up with a workable solution if you just re-think the situation.

But, when the time comes and you begin thinking seriously about acquiring some additional woodworking tools, don't be so quick as to rush out and get the latest shiny new object. Professional woodworking magazines are a great source of information and reviews, so take some time to see how some of the various models that you are considering have been graded.

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Sunday, 29 September 2013

Choosing A Top Coat For Your Woodworking Project

by: Megan Cherry

When you're done with your woodworking project, of course you want to protect it. A top coat protects the finish of your project, as well as the wood itself. If you leave the wood (and any stain or paint you've used) as it is, it's likely to get scratched or dirty, and will also get damaged by watermarks if it comes into contact with moisture. By using a good wood finish, you'll keep your wood and its finish clean and protected, and prevent it from damage, wear and tear. You can apply a clear finish so as to accentuate the grain, or even give it a "wet look" if you like. In general, unfinished wood will develop a dull matte texture that will not show off the grain.

No matter the woodworking project you're working on, there are two basic finishes you can apply. The first is called an "evaporated finish." With this type of finish, it "cures" and becomes hard simply by drying. These types of finishes include lacquers and water-based finishes. You can soften these finishes with heat; therefore, they are given the name "thermoplastic."

The second type of wood finish is called a "reactive finish." This is cured by allowing it to react with another component, such as air, or with another chemical added just prior to the finish's application. Some examples of these include oils in oil-based varnishes or catalyzed lacquers. These types of finishes are called "thermosetting finishes." Unlike the thermoplastic finishes, these finishes are not softened with heat or with the original solvent used.

Within the reactive finishes are two different types of oil finishes. These are oils that dry when exposed to air or oils that do not dry when exposed to air. In example of an oil that does not dry when exposed to air is mineral oil, or baby oil. Those that do dry protect would better than those that don't dry. Therefore, usually, the ones that do dry should be used to finish your wood project.

Most often, linseed or tung oil is used to finish wood. These are distinguished from other types of wood products because they are "true" oils. Both penetrate the finish, which means that they enter the wood fibers themselves. Then they harden within the wood, which makes them the easiest to apply. Simply wipe down wood with them to allow them to penetrate the wood for a few minutes, and then wipe off the excess with a clean rag. If you apply several coats, you will not build up a hard film like you might with a varnish or lacquer, because the film itself dries to a very soft and smooth sheen.

Linseed oil is made from the flax plant. The oil itself is pressed from the plant. It is available both in on refined (also called "raw") form or in refined form. Unrefined linseed oil dries quite slowly and is usually not used on wood. By contrast, boiled linseed oil is thicker and dries more quickly. Usually, the boiled linseed oils available today also have chemical additives to speed up the drying time, which makes them much more suitable for finishing wood.



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Friday, 27 September 2013

Filling In The Pores To Create A "Piano Finish"

by: Megan Cherry

Since ultimately all woodworking projects are judged by their finish, you may want to consider adding a touch of elegance to your own project by filling the pores of the wood. Filling the pores creates a finish that is as smooth as glass. No matter what you are making, if you are serious about woodworking, you will want to learn how to fill pores to create this lovely finish. Some species of wood have more pores of larger size than others. An example would be to compare Maple, which has very few and very small pores with Oak, which has larger pores in greater quantity. While Maple may not need to have the pores filled to create a nice finish, if you want that smooth finish with Oak, pore filling is a necessity.

Today, there are two basic types of fillers on the market: oil-based and water-based. Oil-based fillers have been used for generations, and over the years they have been refined and are now easier to apply than they used to be. Oil-based fillers come in two types: a true oil-based filler, or one mixed with varnish. The real difference between the two lies in the time required for drying before a protective surface coat can be applied. True oil-based fillers may need several days to dry between applications, while a varnish filler has the possibility of being ready for its topcoat in only a few hours. You can apply your oil-based filler directly onto the bare wood. You can choose either a natural color that will match the wood, or one that contains a stain or a color. Using this technique, the filler becomes both a filler and a stain. Japan colors can be applied this way. The other method would be to apply the stain to the wood first. When it is dry, you seal it with a finish, and then apply the filler. Using this method, the filler only fills the pores that were not fully covered by the top coat.

The look you get is controlled by your method of application. If you apply the filler to bare wood, the filler will color both the wood and the pores, while application after sealing only colors the pores.

A thin sealing coat will let a little bit of color from the filler affect the wood surface, while a thicker coat will protect the wood completely, allowing the filler to only affect the pores. Be sure to sand the area well before applying the filler. Use a 320 grit sandpaper.

Before you apply filler to your woodworking project, make sure it is clean. Don't leave any dirt or dust behind. You can apply the filler by hand or spray it on. If you choose to apply it by hand, be sure to use a brush with very stiff bristles so the filler is forced into the pores. When you have finished applying the filler to an area of your project, be sure to squeegee off the excess immediately. If you don't have a commercially made squeegee, and old credit card or other item with a firm flat edge will work just as well. When the filler is dry, use cheesecloth or a wadded piece of burlap to wipe off any excess that remains.



Megan Cherry writes for http://www.pegandrail.com If you are looking for a high quality well made coat rack step in and check us out, we manufacture a complete line of wall mounted coat rack from a shaker peg style coat rack to a modern wall coat rack with brass hooks or satin nickel for the brushed stainless steel look we even have a very modern looking hand rub white lacquer coat racks to go along with our line of Oak, cherry and Maple wall coat racks, we can even manufacture you a custom size coat rack or even ship you a coat rack that is unfinished.


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Thursday, 26 September 2013

10 Power Tools Every Handyman Should Own

by: Michiel Van Kets

Every handyman knows you need the right tool to do the right job, but with so many tools to choose from how do you know that you're prepared for almost anything? Here's our list of the top 10 power tools every handyman should own.

The power drill.

From hanging pictures to building a treehouse or even building a real house a power drill on your hip means you're ready to do business. Make sure that your power drill is ready for any job by having a set of variable size and use bits. Even the most basic set of drill bits should have concrete, metal and wood bits which should cover almost any job. A drill with a "hammer" setting can be extremely useful when dealing with missionary, concrete, or stone.

Circular saw.

A circular saw can be extremely helpful in doing most of the cutting your average handyman needs doing. Modern blades with carbonized tips can chew through almost any job and seemingly lasts forever.

Reciprocating saw.

For those jobs where your handy circular saw just don't cut it the insatiable reciprocating saw is ready to step up to bat. Most useful as a demolition device the reciprocating saw is good for standing up or over your head jobs and is your best choice for cutting holes in existing walls.

Jigsaw.

Rounding out your power saw collection the ever useful and oh so precise jigsaw cuts a fine line between the flexibility of the reciprocating saw and the precision of the circular saw. The small fine blade of your jigsaw is perfect for tight cuts and finish work. If you are planning on doing any elaborate woodworking a jigsaw in your tool collection is a must.

Router.

When you need to get into the middle of something a router will get you there. For fine woodworking router can't be beat as it allows you to make smooth cuts in the center of the piece of wood leaving the surrounding sides intact. It is also a good tool for cutting grooves along the edge of the wood.

Power hand plane.

Essential for smoothing and thinning wood a power hand plane trims miniscule layers off of wood in a flat and even amount. This can be particularly useful in hanging doors and fitting windows. Even in simple projects like a worktable or outdoor deck, a planed surface can make a real professional impression.

Orbital hand sander.

If you are interested in saving hours of backbreaking work an orbital hand sander should be in your toolbox. Using spinning round discs of sandpaper this infinitely useful tool can put a fine smooth finish on almost any piece of woodworking. It is probably one the most time saving tool on the list as anyone who has ever done hours and hours of tedious sanding will tell you.

Table saw.

If you want to get really serious about your woodworking then you need one more saw in your workshop and that is the mighty table saw. A bit intimidating to the weekend warrior but once you learn your way around your table saw and begin to explore the multiplicity of uses it provides you will never be without one again. The only real tool for handling large cutting jobs the table saw is the heart of any serious woodworkers tool shop. Just make sure you get lessons on how to use it while you still have 10 fingers!

Angle grinder.

If you are going to be working with metal, and what serious handy man is not, then you will need something more than an orbital hand sander to get those welds and edges smoothed. An angle grinder is to metal as sandpaper is to wood, without it your metal working jobs will always be plagued by sharp and jagged edges.

Wet dry shop vac.

A serious handyman always makes a serious mess with a wet dry shop vac you'll be able to clean up all the sawdust your mighty table saw generates while retaining the ability to suck up all the drips and drops from your plumbing repairs. Online power tool sales and rental companies offer wet dry power vacs in a variety of sizes so there's no excuse not to have one of your own!

Michiel Van Kets writes articles for Online Power Tools, an online shop for garden tools, ladders, Power Tools Online and more. They aim to provide the best online store and shopping experience with UKs leading team of Search Engine Marketing company.
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Tuesday, 24 September 2013

Bleaches In Wood Finishing: The Good And The Bad

by: Megan Cherry

Another way to change the color of your wood besides staining it is to bleach it. As you can imagine, stains add color, while bleaches take color away. In fact, it can take all of the color away so that the wood appears to have no color. If you choose to bleach your woodworking project, read on for a few basic finishing techniques that can save you a lot of headaches.

When you finish a wood, you can use bleach for many things. A bleach can lighten a wood's natural color or even remove it altogether. A bleach can also remove some stains from the wood, either intentional or accidental. In fact, they can be very useful because they can fix minor problems before they become major ones. There are three basic types of bleach to choose from, and you'll need to know which one to use for each situation, because each of these is pretty specific and not all will work in every situation.

The first kind, alkali peroxide bleaches, are usually sold in paint stores as a two-part liquid known as A/B bleaches. This type of bleach is usually used to remove wood's natural color. It will leave the wood with a very natural looking, even, off-white color base. This, in turn, can produce highly desirable results, depending on the finish you use. You can use these bleaches also to narrow the color differences between two very different types of wood so that they appear to match more closely.

The next type of bleach you can use in your woodworking project is chlorine bleach. This is very useful to remove dye stains or other stains that have occurred, such as coffee spills or grape juice spills on bare wood. As you probably know, chlorine bleach is used in laundry detergent applications and for swimming pools. Any laundry bleach will work, because it's concentration is actually quite weak. You might need to apply it several times to get the desired effect and remove the stain completely. You might also want to use chlorine bleach specifically formulated for pools. This is also known as "pool chlorine."

A third main type of bleach is oxalic acid. This is great because it's very selective in the colors it removes. For example, it does an excellent job at cleaning up iron-based stains, such as those that occur around nail holes. It also does a very good job removing dark water stains and other stains, but does not alter the natural color of the wood itself. Oxalic acid is usually found as a dry powder. It can then be mixed with water and applied to wood.

After you have bleached your wood, you need to neutralize the bleach when the cleansing or color removal is complete. There are different neutralizing processes depending on the type of bleach you've used. For example, with an alkali peroxide bleach, you'll want to rinse with water and then white vinegar. You need one part vinegar to two parts water. For chlorine bleach, rinse with two to three applications of distilled water. If you've used oxalic acid, use two to three applications of distilled water and then a solution of baking soda and hot water. The baking soda solution should be comprised of two tablespoon baking soda to one half pint of hot water.



Megan Cherry writes for http://www.pegandrail.com If you are looking for a high quality well made coat rack step in and check us out, we manufacture a complete line of wall mounted coat rack from a shaker peg style coat rack to a modern wall coat rack with brass hooks or satin nickel for the brushed stainless steel look we even have a very modern looking hand rub white lacquer coat racks to go along with our line of Oak, cherry and Maple wall coat racks, we can even manufacture you a custom size coat rack or even ship you a coat rack that is unfinished.


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Monday, 23 September 2013

No BS Woodworking Episode 2 - Basic tools for making furniture

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Useful Suggestions About Poker Chip Storage Cases

by: Sven Asnien

Poker is the most popular cards game in the world, known as a celebrated skill game, and sport. Since it's humble origins in the 14th century, The game's jargon has become a part of English and American culture.

Poker chips are almost synonymous with the game of poker itself. Early poker players sometimes used jagged gold pieces, gold nuggets, gold dust, or coins as well as "chips" primarily made of ivory, bone, wood, paper and a composition made from clay and shellac. Several companies between the 1880s and the late 1930s began making clay composition casino chips.

Casino chip collecting also became increasingly popular beginning in 1988, with the establishment of the Casino Chips & Gaming Tokens Collectors Club (CC>CC). Poker chip collecting is the practice of intentionally taking chips from Casino premises, trading or collecting online, or in person, for the purpose of collection. Casino chip collecting is a part of numismatics; a variation of exonumia, or coin collecting. Before it became a more serious hobby, chip collecting was simply a case of people keeping chips as souvenirs from a casino they had visited. Some poker chips are now worth up to $50,000.

Whether a serious collector or a weekend gamer, some equipment will be needed in order to store or display your chips. The best way to store or display your poker chips is very subjective, and will ultimately boil down to personal preference.

There are several alternatives to storing and displaying your chips. Frames specifically for displaying poker chips are available, or you can buy special mounting "backer" board to hold the chips and frame them yourself. Another display option is easel-mounted frames for one or more chips. For that extra-special or lucky chip, you might want to consider a poker chip Key Chain Holder. This is typically a clear plastic air-tight holder attached to a key chain.

Storing your chips can range from very inexpensive to extravagant, depending on the type of chips you own, and whether you want them on display or not. Several vendors offer "Poker Chip" binders that are basically a padded binder with the words "Casino Chips" printed on the front and spine. These binders are designed to hold the three-ring binder pages that are in-turn specifically designed to store casino chips.

Flips are typically stored either in binders or flip boxes. The former offer the convenience of being able to view your chips much like viewing a photo album. The flip boxes on the other hand, allow you to store more chips in a small space and are more efficient and practical for those of you who don't have a lot of shelf space for chip albums.

Chip or coin, wallets are small vinyl albums that typically hold anywhere from 24 to 80 chips depending on their size. Air-tights are transparent plastic coin holders that store a single coin. An air-tight consists of two halves that snap-together around a coin to form a snug, air-tight fit. Air-tights are great storage solutions to show-case your best poker chips, but tend to be pricey, so it can be cost-prohibitive to store your entire collection in them.

Coin tubes are hard plastic tubes that can store approximately 20 chips in a small space. The coins are tubular on the inside but are molded square on the outside to prevent rolling and allow stacking. When ordering coin tubes, you should order the 39mm, or "medallion" size. Coin tubes are a good storage solution to store your many traders, but you should be aware that the poker chips are not separated from contact with each other in the tubes. As a result, if not handled properly, it's theoretically possible that the chips could mar each other. For well used or older chips, this may not be a concern, but you may want to think twice before storing your mint-condition chips in a storage tube.

There are several varieties of cases available from aluminum to leather to vinyl to wood. Your budget is your only limit! These cases usually store anywhere from 300 to 500 chips although there are some 1000 chip models. There are several varieties of special presentation cases that are excellent to showcase your most prized poker chips.

Wooden poker cases may include chip trays that can be used to protect and store your chips, or can be removed to stack each players chips at the poker table. There is a shallow groove on the back of the trays to permit you to stack the trays at the poker table. When buying or ordering wooden poker chip case and trays, it is important to specify the finish be polyurethane or a non-soluble varnish. Specifically, avoid any type of Oil finish such as Tung or Danish oil, as these oils can penetrate into the clay chips over time.

Again, be certain that your chips are appropriately sized for the chip case. Generally speaking, the majority of chips are of the 39mm size. Large denomination chips, as well as chips based on the Paulson Inverted Hat and Cane (IHC) fractionals mold, are of the larger 43mm size.

Another measurement that may be referenced is the mold size - 66.7 or a 67.7 rack. This number is an indication as to the length (in millimeters) that is required to house a stack of 20 chips. Paulson chips require a 66.7 rack, others are on the 67.7 size. This may not be a major concern, but it is worth mentioning. Poker chip thickness can also impact how difficult it is too add or remove chips from a tray. As a chip begins to show signs of wear, edges may become less crisp and the chip becomes a bit thinner. Over time, chips may wiggle a bit in the case



Sven Asnien is an experienced woodworker, born and raised in Cleveland, Ohio. He began his woodworking career at Wooster College with theatrical carpentry, building sets and props for a traveling theatrical group. He continued to perfect his woodworking skills after college, working primarily on built-in cabinetry, wainscoting, and high-end finish carpentry. Sven establish Oz Woodworking to combine his love of woodworking and poker.


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Saturday, 21 September 2013

Handmade Wood Furniture - Vermont is the Place to Shop

by: Peggy Farabaugh

Looking for authentic handmade wood furniture, made in the good 'ol USA? It's not so easy to find it anymore, is it? Most Americans think of North Carolina as the fine furniture capitol of the USA, but over the past 30 years, that has changed. The furniture companies we think of as being quintessentially American -- for example Thomasville, Broyhill, Ethan Allen and Lane -- no longer make much, if any furniture in the USA. Instead they outsource their furniture to factories in China, Vietnam and other third world countries.

So where does one go to find authentic, high quality, handmade wood furniture? It turns out that Vermont is now the fine furniture capitol of the country. By unofficial count, some 2000 small wood furniture makers dot the rural Vermont countryside, taking advantage of the heavily forested nature of our state for the supply of natural, eco-friendly raw materials.

Vermont has traditionally been home to a vibrant cottage industry of artisans, working in all types of media, including native hardwoods. Furniture makers from all around the globe flock to Vermont to practice their craft in the Green Mountain state. A thriving community of woodworkers has developed, bringing together Vermont families who have practiced woodworking for many generations and newcomers who have brought new and different aspects of the craft to the area.

Furniture aficionados will find Vermont furniture shopping to be quite a different experience than the routine trip to a neighborhood big box furniture store. Savvy customers are combining their furniture shopping with travel and tourism throughout Vermont's rural countryside. The autumn leaf-peeping season has become the time of choice to shop although visitors are welcomed year-round. To learn more about Vermont's handmade wood furniture, check out the Vermont Fine Furniture Festival, held in Woodstock every year during the last week of September. There you'll get an insider's view of how authentic fine wood furniture is made and why Vermont is truly the Fine Furniture Capitol of America.

Peggy Farabaugh is owner of Vermont Woods Studios, purveyor of natural, eco-friendly fine furniture from Vermont. Each piece of this American furniture collection is made to order, from sustainably harvested wood, and can be customized to fit the customer's space and purpose. Custom furniture at catalog prices.

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Thursday, 19 September 2013

Do's and Don'ts For Building a Platform Bed

by: Carl Daughtridge

When I set about building a platform bed, I was pretty much winging it. I did not consult anyone else, and I did not have anyone with past experience giving me advice. Since you are reading this article seeking advice on building your own platform bed, I would like to share some of my insight on the project. Take it from someone who built a bed the wrong way before choosing the right way; it is much easier, cheaper, and less painful to start out right.

Here, you will find my list of do's and don'ts for building your own platform bed. This list is based on my own experiences so you will find it to be very practical advice.

Do carefully consider the platform bed plans that you are choosing from. After all, this plan will be your guidance through the project. If you are new to building things, then you will definitely want to choose plans that are very thorough and that explain everything step by step and in detail. Otherwise, you could become confused halfway through the project.

Don't use free plans. I cannot say this enough. Learn from my experience and do not make this mistake. Free plans will not provide all of the information you need and you could very likely end up with a faulty bed. Please believe me on this and make the decision to buy quality plans.

Do choose quality materials. You are building a bed for yourself or a loved one. You do not want to use subpar materials just because you were trying to save a few dollars. Just as the plans are important, so are the materials. You do not have to spend an inordinate amount on extravagant type of wood. Just make sure the materials you choose are quality and durable.

Don't be afraid to ask someone else if you are confused. There is nothing wrong with getting a little advice, especially if you know someone with more experience than you. I did not get advice when I should have. If I had, then maybe I would not have lived through my fiasco of building the first bed all wrong. Then again, if I had not, I may not be here giving you advice now!

Do decide on the style of the bed before you ever cut a piece of wood. It is best to choose the style and then get the platform bed plans accordingly. If you choose very basic plans with the intent on upgrading as you see fit, you could run into problems, which could make you very unhappy.

Over all, building your own platform bed can be a rewarding and fun experience. Just remember these do's and don'ts so that you can make sure your experience is a good one. You do not have to make the same mistakes I did and you can build the perfect platform bed on your first try. Just keep in mind above all else that the plans you choose will be the key to building the best bed!

I built a fabulous platform bed for my son using a great set of high quality premium Platform Bed Plans. Feel free to check out my useful tips and advice for choosing woodworking plans at http://platformbedplansinfo.com

Carl is a retired manager for one of the world's top trucking companies. These days he is big into his woodworking hobby and gardening outdoors. He has just built a new platform bed using plans from a great woodworking library as seen at http://platformbedplansinfo.com

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