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Monday, 30 September 2013
Sunday, 29 September 2013
Choosing A Top Coat For Your Woodworking Project
by: Megan Cherry
When you're done with your woodworking project, of course you want to protect it. A top coat protects the finish of your project, as well as the wood itself. If you leave the wood (and any stain or paint you've used) as it is, it's likely to get scratched or dirty, and will also get damaged by watermarks if it comes into contact with moisture. By using a good wood finish, you'll keep your wood and its finish clean and protected, and prevent it from damage, wear and tear. You can apply a clear finish so as to accentuate the grain, or even give it a "wet look" if you like. In general, unfinished wood will develop a dull matte texture that will not show off the grain.
No matter the woodworking project you're working on, there are two basic finishes you can apply. The first is called an "evaporated finish." With this type of finish, it "cures" and becomes hard simply by drying. These types of finishes include lacquers and water-based finishes. You can soften these finishes with heat; therefore, they are given the name "thermoplastic."
The second type of wood finish is called a "reactive finish." This is cured by allowing it to react with another component, such as air, or with another chemical added just prior to the finish's application. Some examples of these include oils in oil-based varnishes or catalyzed lacquers. These types of finishes are called "thermosetting finishes." Unlike the thermoplastic finishes, these finishes are not softened with heat or with the original solvent used.
Within the reactive finishes are two different types of oil finishes. These are oils that dry when exposed to air or oils that do not dry when exposed to air. In example of an oil that does not dry when exposed to air is mineral oil, or baby oil. Those that do dry protect would better than those that don't dry. Therefore, usually, the ones that do dry should be used to finish your wood project.
Most often, linseed or tung oil is used to finish wood. These are distinguished from other types of wood products because they are "true" oils. Both penetrate the finish, which means that they enter the wood fibers themselves. Then they harden within the wood, which makes them the easiest to apply. Simply wipe down wood with them to allow them to penetrate the wood for a few minutes, and then wipe off the excess with a clean rag. If you apply several coats, you will not build up a hard film like you might with a varnish or lacquer, because the film itself dries to a very soft and smooth sheen.
Linseed oil is made from the flax plant. The oil itself is pressed from the plant. It is available both in on refined (also called "raw") form or in refined form. Unrefined linseed oil dries quite slowly and is usually not used on wood. By contrast, boiled linseed oil is thicker and dries more quickly. Usually, the boiled linseed oils available today also have chemical additives to speed up the drying time, which makes them much more suitable for finishing wood.
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When you're done with your woodworking project, of course you want to protect it. A top coat protects the finish of your project, as well as the wood itself. If you leave the wood (and any stain or paint you've used) as it is, it's likely to get scratched or dirty, and will also get damaged by watermarks if it comes into contact with moisture. By using a good wood finish, you'll keep your wood and its finish clean and protected, and prevent it from damage, wear and tear. You can apply a clear finish so as to accentuate the grain, or even give it a "wet look" if you like. In general, unfinished wood will develop a dull matte texture that will not show off the grain.
No matter the woodworking project you're working on, there are two basic finishes you can apply. The first is called an "evaporated finish." With this type of finish, it "cures" and becomes hard simply by drying. These types of finishes include lacquers and water-based finishes. You can soften these finishes with heat; therefore, they are given the name "thermoplastic."
The second type of wood finish is called a "reactive finish." This is cured by allowing it to react with another component, such as air, or with another chemical added just prior to the finish's application. Some examples of these include oils in oil-based varnishes or catalyzed lacquers. These types of finishes are called "thermosetting finishes." Unlike the thermoplastic finishes, these finishes are not softened with heat or with the original solvent used.
Within the reactive finishes are two different types of oil finishes. These are oils that dry when exposed to air or oils that do not dry when exposed to air. In example of an oil that does not dry when exposed to air is mineral oil, or baby oil. Those that do dry protect would better than those that don't dry. Therefore, usually, the ones that do dry should be used to finish your wood project.
Most often, linseed or tung oil is used to finish wood. These are distinguished from other types of wood products because they are "true" oils. Both penetrate the finish, which means that they enter the wood fibers themselves. Then they harden within the wood, which makes them the easiest to apply. Simply wipe down wood with them to allow them to penetrate the wood for a few minutes, and then wipe off the excess with a clean rag. If you apply several coats, you will not build up a hard film like you might with a varnish or lacquer, because the film itself dries to a very soft and smooth sheen.
Linseed oil is made from the flax plant. The oil itself is pressed from the plant. It is available both in on refined (also called "raw") form or in refined form. Unrefined linseed oil dries quite slowly and is usually not used on wood. By contrast, boiled linseed oil is thicker and dries more quickly. Usually, the boiled linseed oils available today also have chemical additives to speed up the drying time, which makes them much more suitable for finishing wood.
Megan Cherry writes for http://www.pegandrail.com If you are looking for a high quality well made coat rack step in and check us out, we manufacture a complete line of wall mounted coat rack from a shaker peg style coat rack to a modern wall coat rack with brass hooks or satin nickel for the brushed stainless steel look we even have a very modern looking hand rub white lacquer coat racks to go along with our line of Oak, cherry and Maple wall coat racks, we can even manufacture you a custom size coat rack or even ship you a coat rack that is unfinished.
16,000+ Projects and Wood Working Plans
Indoor, outdoor,
large, small, simple or detailed, there is a wood working plan for you! In just
a few minutes you'll be able to get your hands on 16,000 wood working projects
and plans. This isn't your regular DIY.
Everything is laid
out perfectly for each project from start to finish. This is unlike anything
you've seen before. Watch the Free Video to see how
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Most system sellers endorse a product where you lose your bankroll in
minutes when the wrong sequence of numbers or player error will deplete ALL of
your winnings in a few spins. Not the 007 strategy! You will be
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Friday, 27 September 2013
Filling In The Pores To Create A "Piano Finish"
by: Megan Cherry
Since ultimately all woodworking projects are judged by their finish, you may want to consider adding a touch of elegance to your own project by filling the pores of the wood. Filling the pores creates a finish that is as smooth as glass. No matter what you are making, if you are serious about woodworking, you will want to learn how to fill pores to create this lovely finish. Some species of wood have more pores of larger size than others. An example would be to compare Maple, which has very few and very small pores with Oak, which has larger pores in greater quantity. While Maple may not need to have the pores filled to create a nice finish, if you want that smooth finish with Oak, pore filling is a necessity.
Today, there are two basic types of fillers on the market: oil-based and water-based. Oil-based fillers have been used for generations, and over the years they have been refined and are now easier to apply than they used to be. Oil-based fillers come in two types: a true oil-based filler, or one mixed with varnish. The real difference between the two lies in the time required for drying before a protective surface coat can be applied. True oil-based fillers may need several days to dry between applications, while a varnish filler has the possibility of being ready for its topcoat in only a few hours. You can apply your oil-based filler directly onto the bare wood. You can choose either a natural color that will match the wood, or one that contains a stain or a color. Using this technique, the filler becomes both a filler and a stain. Japan colors can be applied this way. The other method would be to apply the stain to the wood first. When it is dry, you seal it with a finish, and then apply the filler. Using this method, the filler only fills the pores that were not fully covered by the top coat.
The look you get is controlled by your method of application. If you apply the filler to bare wood, the filler will color both the wood and the pores, while application after sealing only colors the pores.
A thin sealing coat will let a little bit of color from the filler affect the wood surface, while a thicker coat will protect the wood completely, allowing the filler to only affect the pores. Be sure to sand the area well before applying the filler. Use a 320 grit sandpaper.
Before you apply filler to your woodworking project, make sure it is clean. Don't leave any dirt or dust behind. You can apply the filler by hand or spray it on. If you choose to apply it by hand, be sure to use a brush with very stiff bristles so the filler is forced into the pores. When you have finished applying the filler to an area of your project, be sure to squeegee off the excess immediately. If you don't have a commercially made squeegee, and old credit card or other item with a firm flat edge will work just as well. When the filler is dry, use cheesecloth or a wadded piece of burlap to wipe off any excess that remains.
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Since ultimately all woodworking projects are judged by their finish, you may want to consider adding a touch of elegance to your own project by filling the pores of the wood. Filling the pores creates a finish that is as smooth as glass. No matter what you are making, if you are serious about woodworking, you will want to learn how to fill pores to create this lovely finish. Some species of wood have more pores of larger size than others. An example would be to compare Maple, which has very few and very small pores with Oak, which has larger pores in greater quantity. While Maple may not need to have the pores filled to create a nice finish, if you want that smooth finish with Oak, pore filling is a necessity.
Today, there are two basic types of fillers on the market: oil-based and water-based. Oil-based fillers have been used for generations, and over the years they have been refined and are now easier to apply than they used to be. Oil-based fillers come in two types: a true oil-based filler, or one mixed with varnish. The real difference between the two lies in the time required for drying before a protective surface coat can be applied. True oil-based fillers may need several days to dry between applications, while a varnish filler has the possibility of being ready for its topcoat in only a few hours. You can apply your oil-based filler directly onto the bare wood. You can choose either a natural color that will match the wood, or one that contains a stain or a color. Using this technique, the filler becomes both a filler and a stain. Japan colors can be applied this way. The other method would be to apply the stain to the wood first. When it is dry, you seal it with a finish, and then apply the filler. Using this method, the filler only fills the pores that were not fully covered by the top coat.
The look you get is controlled by your method of application. If you apply the filler to bare wood, the filler will color both the wood and the pores, while application after sealing only colors the pores.
A thin sealing coat will let a little bit of color from the filler affect the wood surface, while a thicker coat will protect the wood completely, allowing the filler to only affect the pores. Be sure to sand the area well before applying the filler. Use a 320 grit sandpaper.
Before you apply filler to your woodworking project, make sure it is clean. Don't leave any dirt or dust behind. You can apply the filler by hand or spray it on. If you choose to apply it by hand, be sure to use a brush with very stiff bristles so the filler is forced into the pores. When you have finished applying the filler to an area of your project, be sure to squeegee off the excess immediately. If you don't have a commercially made squeegee, and old credit card or other item with a firm flat edge will work just as well. When the filler is dry, use cheesecloth or a wadded piece of burlap to wipe off any excess that remains.
Megan Cherry writes for http://www.pegandrail.com If you are looking for a high quality well made coat rack step in and check us out, we manufacture a complete line of wall mounted coat rack from a shaker peg style coat rack to a modern wall coat rack with brass hooks or satin nickel for the brushed stainless steel look we even have a very modern looking hand rub white lacquer coat racks to go along with our line of Oak, cherry and Maple wall coat racks, we can even manufacture you a custom size coat rack or even ship you a coat rack that is unfinished.
16,000+ Projects and Wood Working Plans
Indoor, outdoor,
large, small, simple or detailed, there is a wood working plan for you! In just
a few minutes you'll be able to get your hands on 16,000 wood working projects
and plans. This isn't your regular DIY.
Everything is laid
out perfectly for each project from start to finish. This is unlike anything
you've seen before. Watch the Free Video to see how
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If you are lucky enough to be one of the few
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make incredible volumes of money for the rest of your life. The 007
roulette program can and will provide a sound financial opportunity for you.
Most system sellers endorse a product where you lose your bankroll in
minutes when the wrong sequence of numbers or player error will deplete ALL of
your winnings in a few spins. Not the 007 strategy! You will be
amazed at the power of the system and the frequency of its wins.
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10 Power Tools Every Handyman Should Own
by: Michiel Van Kets
Every handyman knows you need the right tool to do the right job, but with so many tools to choose from how do you know that you're prepared for almost anything? Here's our list of the top 10 power tools every handyman should own.
The power drill.
From hanging pictures to building a treehouse or even building a real house a power drill on your hip means you're ready to do business. Make sure that your power drill is ready for any job by having a set of variable size and use bits. Even the most basic set of drill bits should have concrete, metal and wood bits which should cover almost any job. A drill with a "hammer" setting can be extremely useful when dealing with missionary, concrete, or stone.
Circular saw.
A circular saw can be extremely helpful in doing most of the cutting your average handyman needs doing. Modern blades with carbonized tips can chew through almost any job and seemingly lasts forever.
Reciprocating saw.
For those jobs where your handy circular saw just don't cut it the insatiable reciprocating saw is ready to step up to bat. Most useful as a demolition device the reciprocating saw is good for standing up or over your head jobs and is your best choice for cutting holes in existing walls.
Jigsaw.
Rounding out your power saw collection the ever useful and oh so precise jigsaw cuts a fine line between the flexibility of the reciprocating saw and the precision of the circular saw. The small fine blade of your jigsaw is perfect for tight cuts and finish work. If you are planning on doing any elaborate woodworking a jigsaw in your tool collection is a must.
Router.
When you need to get into the middle of something a router will get you there. For fine woodworking router can't be beat as it allows you to make smooth cuts in the center of the piece of wood leaving the surrounding sides intact. It is also a good tool for cutting grooves along the edge of the wood.
Power hand plane.
Essential for smoothing and thinning wood a power hand plane trims miniscule layers off of wood in a flat and even amount. This can be particularly useful in hanging doors and fitting windows. Even in simple projects like a worktable or outdoor deck, a planed surface can make a real professional impression.
Orbital hand sander.
If you are interested in saving hours of backbreaking work an orbital hand sander should be in your toolbox. Using spinning round discs of sandpaper this infinitely useful tool can put a fine smooth finish on almost any piece of woodworking. It is probably one the most time saving tool on the list as anyone who has ever done hours and hours of tedious sanding will tell you.
Table saw.
If you want to get really serious about your woodworking then you need one more saw in your workshop and that is the mighty table saw. A bit intimidating to the weekend warrior but once you learn your way around your table saw and begin to explore the multiplicity of uses it provides you will never be without one again. The only real tool for handling large cutting jobs the table saw is the heart of any serious woodworkers tool shop. Just make sure you get lessons on how to use it while you still have 10 fingers!
Angle grinder.
If you are going to be working with metal, and what serious handy man is not, then you will need something more than an orbital hand sander to get those welds and edges smoothed. An angle grinder is to metal as sandpaper is to wood, without it your metal working jobs will always be plagued by sharp and jagged edges.
Wet dry shop vac.
A serious handyman always makes a serious mess with a wet dry shop vac you'll be able to clean up all the sawdust your mighty table saw generates while retaining the ability to suck up all the drips and drops from your plumbing repairs. Online power tool sales and rental companies offer wet dry power vacs in a variety of sizes so there's no excuse not to have one of your own!
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![]()
Every handyman knows you need the right tool to do the right job, but with so many tools to choose from how do you know that you're prepared for almost anything? Here's our list of the top 10 power tools every handyman should own.
The power drill.
From hanging pictures to building a treehouse or even building a real house a power drill on your hip means you're ready to do business. Make sure that your power drill is ready for any job by having a set of variable size and use bits. Even the most basic set of drill bits should have concrete, metal and wood bits which should cover almost any job. A drill with a "hammer" setting can be extremely useful when dealing with missionary, concrete, or stone.
Circular saw.
A circular saw can be extremely helpful in doing most of the cutting your average handyman needs doing. Modern blades with carbonized tips can chew through almost any job and seemingly lasts forever.
Reciprocating saw.
For those jobs where your handy circular saw just don't cut it the insatiable reciprocating saw is ready to step up to bat. Most useful as a demolition device the reciprocating saw is good for standing up or over your head jobs and is your best choice for cutting holes in existing walls.
Jigsaw.
Rounding out your power saw collection the ever useful and oh so precise jigsaw cuts a fine line between the flexibility of the reciprocating saw and the precision of the circular saw. The small fine blade of your jigsaw is perfect for tight cuts and finish work. If you are planning on doing any elaborate woodworking a jigsaw in your tool collection is a must.
Router.
When you need to get into the middle of something a router will get you there. For fine woodworking router can't be beat as it allows you to make smooth cuts in the center of the piece of wood leaving the surrounding sides intact. It is also a good tool for cutting grooves along the edge of the wood.
Power hand plane.
Essential for smoothing and thinning wood a power hand plane trims miniscule layers off of wood in a flat and even amount. This can be particularly useful in hanging doors and fitting windows. Even in simple projects like a worktable or outdoor deck, a planed surface can make a real professional impression.
Orbital hand sander.
If you are interested in saving hours of backbreaking work an orbital hand sander should be in your toolbox. Using spinning round discs of sandpaper this infinitely useful tool can put a fine smooth finish on almost any piece of woodworking. It is probably one the most time saving tool on the list as anyone who has ever done hours and hours of tedious sanding will tell you.
Table saw.
If you want to get really serious about your woodworking then you need one more saw in your workshop and that is the mighty table saw. A bit intimidating to the weekend warrior but once you learn your way around your table saw and begin to explore the multiplicity of uses it provides you will never be without one again. The only real tool for handling large cutting jobs the table saw is the heart of any serious woodworkers tool shop. Just make sure you get lessons on how to use it while you still have 10 fingers!
Angle grinder.
If you are going to be working with metal, and what serious handy man is not, then you will need something more than an orbital hand sander to get those welds and edges smoothed. An angle grinder is to metal as sandpaper is to wood, without it your metal working jobs will always be plagued by sharp and jagged edges.
Wet dry shop vac.
A serious handyman always makes a serious mess with a wet dry shop vac you'll be able to clean up all the sawdust your mighty table saw generates while retaining the ability to suck up all the drips and drops from your plumbing repairs. Online power tool sales and rental companies offer wet dry power vacs in a variety of sizes so there's no excuse not to have one of your own!
Michiel Van Kets writes articles for Online Power Tools, an online shop for garden tools, ladders, Power Tools Online and more. They aim to provide the best online store and shopping experience with UKs leading team of Search Engine Marketing company.
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16,000+ Projects and Wood Working Plans
Indoor, outdoor,
large, small, simple or detailed, there is a wood working plan for you! In just
a few minutes you'll be able to get your hands on 16,000 wood working projects
and plans. This isn't your regular DIY.
Everything is laid
out perfectly for each project from start to finish. This is unlike anything
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Most system sellers endorse a product where you lose your bankroll in
minutes when the wrong sequence of numbers or player error will deplete ALL of
your winnings in a few spins. Not the 007 strategy! You will be
amazed at the power of the system and the frequency of its wins.
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Tuesday, 24 September 2013
Bleaches In Wood Finishing: The Good And The Bad
by: Megan Cherry
Another way to change the color of your wood besides staining it is to bleach it. As you can imagine, stains add color, while bleaches take color away. In fact, it can take all of the color away so that the wood appears to have no color. If you choose to bleach your woodworking project, read on for a few basic finishing techniques that can save you a lot of headaches.
When you finish a wood, you can use bleach for many things. A bleach can lighten a wood's natural color or even remove it altogether. A bleach can also remove some stains from the wood, either intentional or accidental. In fact, they can be very useful because they can fix minor problems before they become major ones. There are three basic types of bleach to choose from, and you'll need to know which one to use for each situation, because each of these is pretty specific and not all will work in every situation.
The first kind, alkali peroxide bleaches, are usually sold in paint stores as a two-part liquid known as A/B bleaches. This type of bleach is usually used to remove wood's natural color. It will leave the wood with a very natural looking, even, off-white color base. This, in turn, can produce highly desirable results, depending on the finish you use. You can use these bleaches also to narrow the color differences between two very different types of wood so that they appear to match more closely.
The next type of bleach you can use in your woodworking project is chlorine bleach. This is very useful to remove dye stains or other stains that have occurred, such as coffee spills or grape juice spills on bare wood. As you probably know, chlorine bleach is used in laundry detergent applications and for swimming pools. Any laundry bleach will work, because it's concentration is actually quite weak. You might need to apply it several times to get the desired effect and remove the stain completely. You might also want to use chlorine bleach specifically formulated for pools. This is also known as "pool chlorine."
A third main type of bleach is oxalic acid. This is great because it's very selective in the colors it removes. For example, it does an excellent job at cleaning up iron-based stains, such as those that occur around nail holes. It also does a very good job removing dark water stains and other stains, but does not alter the natural color of the wood itself. Oxalic acid is usually found as a dry powder. It can then be mixed with water and applied to wood.
After you have bleached your wood, you need to neutralize the bleach when the cleansing or color removal is complete. There are different neutralizing processes depending on the type of bleach you've used. For example, with an alkali peroxide bleach, you'll want to rinse with water and then white vinegar. You need one part vinegar to two parts water. For chlorine bleach, rinse with two to three applications of distilled water. If you've used oxalic acid, use two to three applications of distilled water and then a solution of baking soda and hot water. The baking soda solution should be comprised of two tablespoon baking soda to one half pint of hot water.
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Another way to change the color of your wood besides staining it is to bleach it. As you can imagine, stains add color, while bleaches take color away. In fact, it can take all of the color away so that the wood appears to have no color. If you choose to bleach your woodworking project, read on for a few basic finishing techniques that can save you a lot of headaches.
When you finish a wood, you can use bleach for many things. A bleach can lighten a wood's natural color or even remove it altogether. A bleach can also remove some stains from the wood, either intentional or accidental. In fact, they can be very useful because they can fix minor problems before they become major ones. There are three basic types of bleach to choose from, and you'll need to know which one to use for each situation, because each of these is pretty specific and not all will work in every situation.
The first kind, alkali peroxide bleaches, are usually sold in paint stores as a two-part liquid known as A/B bleaches. This type of bleach is usually used to remove wood's natural color. It will leave the wood with a very natural looking, even, off-white color base. This, in turn, can produce highly desirable results, depending on the finish you use. You can use these bleaches also to narrow the color differences between two very different types of wood so that they appear to match more closely.
The next type of bleach you can use in your woodworking project is chlorine bleach. This is very useful to remove dye stains or other stains that have occurred, such as coffee spills or grape juice spills on bare wood. As you probably know, chlorine bleach is used in laundry detergent applications and for swimming pools. Any laundry bleach will work, because it's concentration is actually quite weak. You might need to apply it several times to get the desired effect and remove the stain completely. You might also want to use chlorine bleach specifically formulated for pools. This is also known as "pool chlorine."
A third main type of bleach is oxalic acid. This is great because it's very selective in the colors it removes. For example, it does an excellent job at cleaning up iron-based stains, such as those that occur around nail holes. It also does a very good job removing dark water stains and other stains, but does not alter the natural color of the wood itself. Oxalic acid is usually found as a dry powder. It can then be mixed with water and applied to wood.
After you have bleached your wood, you need to neutralize the bleach when the cleansing or color removal is complete. There are different neutralizing processes depending on the type of bleach you've used. For example, with an alkali peroxide bleach, you'll want to rinse with water and then white vinegar. You need one part vinegar to two parts water. For chlorine bleach, rinse with two to three applications of distilled water. If you've used oxalic acid, use two to three applications of distilled water and then a solution of baking soda and hot water. The baking soda solution should be comprised of two tablespoon baking soda to one half pint of hot water.
Megan Cherry writes for http://www.pegandrail.com If you are looking for a high quality well made coat rack step in and check us out, we manufacture a complete line of wall mounted coat rack from a shaker peg style coat rack to a modern wall coat rack with brass hooks or satin nickel for the brushed stainless steel look we even have a very modern looking hand rub white lacquer coat racks to go along with our line of Oak, cherry and Maple wall coat racks, we can even manufacture you a custom size coat rack or even ship you a coat rack that is unfinished.
16,000+ Projects and Wood Working Plans
Indoor, outdoor,
large, small, simple or detailed, there is a wood working plan for you! In just
a few minutes you'll be able to get your hands on 16,000 wood working projects
and plans. This isn't your regular DIY.
Everything is laid
out perfectly for each project from start to finish. This is unlike anything
you've seen before. Watch the Free Video to see how
http://aq.be/f6b7b3
http://aq.be/f6b7b3
The Safest Roulette System in the World
If you are lucky enough to be one of the few
people to purchase my system I promise I’ll provide you with the opportunity to
make incredible volumes of money for the rest of your life. The 007
roulette program can and will provide a sound financial opportunity for you.
Most system sellers endorse a product where you lose your bankroll in
minutes when the wrong sequence of numbers or player error will deplete ALL of
your winnings in a few spins. Not the 007 strategy! You will be
amazed at the power of the system and the frequency of its wins.
http://aq.be/f0db09
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Join Our Online Fitness Training Program
Workout when you want 24/7 program from anywhere youchoose no more rushing to the gym or watching the timehttp://www.1shoppingcart.com/app/?af=1557914
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http://www.africapoint.com/jamaffiliates/jrox.php?id=556Monday, 23 September 2013
Useful Suggestions About Poker Chip Storage Cases
by: Sven Asnien
Poker is the most popular cards game in the world, known as a celebrated skill game, and sport. Since it's humble origins in the 14th century, The game's jargon has become a part of English and American culture.
Poker chips are almost synonymous with the game of poker itself. Early poker players sometimes used jagged gold pieces, gold nuggets, gold dust, or coins as well as "chips" primarily made of ivory, bone, wood, paper and a composition made from clay and shellac. Several companies between the 1880s and the late 1930s began making clay composition casino chips.
Casino chip collecting also became increasingly popular beginning in 1988, with the establishment of the Casino Chips & Gaming Tokens Collectors Club (CC>CC). Poker chip collecting is the practice of intentionally taking chips from Casino premises, trading or collecting online, or in person, for the purpose of collection. Casino chip collecting is a part of numismatics; a variation of exonumia, or coin collecting. Before it became a more serious hobby, chip collecting was simply a case of people keeping chips as souvenirs from a casino they had visited. Some poker chips are now worth up to $50,000.
Whether a serious collector or a weekend gamer, some equipment will be needed in order to store or display your chips. The best way to store or display your poker chips is very subjective, and will ultimately boil down to personal preference.
There are several alternatives to storing and displaying your chips. Frames specifically for displaying poker chips are available, or you can buy special mounting "backer" board to hold the chips and frame them yourself. Another display option is easel-mounted frames for one or more chips. For that extra-special or lucky chip, you might want to consider a poker chip Key Chain Holder. This is typically a clear plastic air-tight holder attached to a key chain.
Storing your chips can range from very inexpensive to extravagant, depending on the type of chips you own, and whether you want them on display or not. Several vendors offer "Poker Chip" binders that are basically a padded binder with the words "Casino Chips" printed on the front and spine. These binders are designed to hold the three-ring binder pages that are in-turn specifically designed to store casino chips.
Flips are typically stored either in binders or flip boxes. The former offer the convenience of being able to view your chips much like viewing a photo album. The flip boxes on the other hand, allow you to store more chips in a small space and are more efficient and practical for those of you who don't have a lot of shelf space for chip albums.
Chip or coin, wallets are small vinyl albums that typically hold anywhere from 24 to 80 chips depending on their size. Air-tights are transparent plastic coin holders that store a single coin. An air-tight consists of two halves that snap-together around a coin to form a snug, air-tight fit. Air-tights are great storage solutions to show-case your best poker chips, but tend to be pricey, so it can be cost-prohibitive to store your entire collection in them.
Coin tubes are hard plastic tubes that can store approximately 20 chips in a small space. The coins are tubular on the inside but are molded square on the outside to prevent rolling and allow stacking. When ordering coin tubes, you should order the 39mm, or "medallion" size. Coin tubes are a good storage solution to store your many traders, but you should be aware that the poker chips are not separated from contact with each other in the tubes. As a result, if not handled properly, it's theoretically possible that the chips could mar each other. For well used or older chips, this may not be a concern, but you may want to think twice before storing your mint-condition chips in a storage tube.
There are several varieties of cases available from aluminum to leather to vinyl to wood. Your budget is your only limit! These cases usually store anywhere from 300 to 500 chips although there are some 1000 chip models. There are several varieties of special presentation cases that are excellent to showcase your most prized poker chips.
Wooden poker cases may include chip trays that can be used to protect and store your chips, or can be removed to stack each players chips at the poker table. There is a shallow groove on the back of the trays to permit you to stack the trays at the poker table. When buying or ordering wooden poker chip case and trays, it is important to specify the finish be polyurethane or a non-soluble varnish. Specifically, avoid any type of Oil finish such as Tung or Danish oil, as these oils can penetrate into the clay chips over time.
Again, be certain that your chips are appropriately sized for the chip case. Generally speaking, the majority of chips are of the 39mm size. Large denomination chips, as well as chips based on the Paulson Inverted Hat and Cane (IHC) fractionals mold, are of the larger 43mm size.
Another measurement that may be referenced is the mold size - 66.7 or a 67.7 rack. This number is an indication as to the length (in millimeters) that is required to house a stack of 20 chips. Paulson chips require a 66.7 rack, others are on the 67.7 size. This may not be a major concern, but it is worth mentioning. Poker chip thickness can also impact how difficult it is too add or remove chips from a tray. As a chip begins to show signs of wear, edges may become less crisp and the chip becomes a bit thinner. Over time, chips may wiggle a bit in the case
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Poker is the most popular cards game in the world, known as a celebrated skill game, and sport. Since it's humble origins in the 14th century, The game's jargon has become a part of English and American culture.
Poker chips are almost synonymous with the game of poker itself. Early poker players sometimes used jagged gold pieces, gold nuggets, gold dust, or coins as well as "chips" primarily made of ivory, bone, wood, paper and a composition made from clay and shellac. Several companies between the 1880s and the late 1930s began making clay composition casino chips.
Casino chip collecting also became increasingly popular beginning in 1988, with the establishment of the Casino Chips & Gaming Tokens Collectors Club (CC>CC). Poker chip collecting is the practice of intentionally taking chips from Casino premises, trading or collecting online, or in person, for the purpose of collection. Casino chip collecting is a part of numismatics; a variation of exonumia, or coin collecting. Before it became a more serious hobby, chip collecting was simply a case of people keeping chips as souvenirs from a casino they had visited. Some poker chips are now worth up to $50,000.
Whether a serious collector or a weekend gamer, some equipment will be needed in order to store or display your chips. The best way to store or display your poker chips is very subjective, and will ultimately boil down to personal preference.
There are several alternatives to storing and displaying your chips. Frames specifically for displaying poker chips are available, or you can buy special mounting "backer" board to hold the chips and frame them yourself. Another display option is easel-mounted frames for one or more chips. For that extra-special or lucky chip, you might want to consider a poker chip Key Chain Holder. This is typically a clear plastic air-tight holder attached to a key chain.
Storing your chips can range from very inexpensive to extravagant, depending on the type of chips you own, and whether you want them on display or not. Several vendors offer "Poker Chip" binders that are basically a padded binder with the words "Casino Chips" printed on the front and spine. These binders are designed to hold the three-ring binder pages that are in-turn specifically designed to store casino chips.
Flips are typically stored either in binders or flip boxes. The former offer the convenience of being able to view your chips much like viewing a photo album. The flip boxes on the other hand, allow you to store more chips in a small space and are more efficient and practical for those of you who don't have a lot of shelf space for chip albums.
Chip or coin, wallets are small vinyl albums that typically hold anywhere from 24 to 80 chips depending on their size. Air-tights are transparent plastic coin holders that store a single coin. An air-tight consists of two halves that snap-together around a coin to form a snug, air-tight fit. Air-tights are great storage solutions to show-case your best poker chips, but tend to be pricey, so it can be cost-prohibitive to store your entire collection in them.
Coin tubes are hard plastic tubes that can store approximately 20 chips in a small space. The coins are tubular on the inside but are molded square on the outside to prevent rolling and allow stacking. When ordering coin tubes, you should order the 39mm, or "medallion" size. Coin tubes are a good storage solution to store your many traders, but you should be aware that the poker chips are not separated from contact with each other in the tubes. As a result, if not handled properly, it's theoretically possible that the chips could mar each other. For well used or older chips, this may not be a concern, but you may want to think twice before storing your mint-condition chips in a storage tube.
There are several varieties of cases available from aluminum to leather to vinyl to wood. Your budget is your only limit! These cases usually store anywhere from 300 to 500 chips although there are some 1000 chip models. There are several varieties of special presentation cases that are excellent to showcase your most prized poker chips.
Wooden poker cases may include chip trays that can be used to protect and store your chips, or can be removed to stack each players chips at the poker table. There is a shallow groove on the back of the trays to permit you to stack the trays at the poker table. When buying or ordering wooden poker chip case and trays, it is important to specify the finish be polyurethane or a non-soluble varnish. Specifically, avoid any type of Oil finish such as Tung or Danish oil, as these oils can penetrate into the clay chips over time.
Again, be certain that your chips are appropriately sized for the chip case. Generally speaking, the majority of chips are of the 39mm size. Large denomination chips, as well as chips based on the Paulson Inverted Hat and Cane (IHC) fractionals mold, are of the larger 43mm size.
Another measurement that may be referenced is the mold size - 66.7 or a 67.7 rack. This number is an indication as to the length (in millimeters) that is required to house a stack of 20 chips. Paulson chips require a 66.7 rack, others are on the 67.7 size. This may not be a major concern, but it is worth mentioning. Poker chip thickness can also impact how difficult it is too add or remove chips from a tray. As a chip begins to show signs of wear, edges may become less crisp and the chip becomes a bit thinner. Over time, chips may wiggle a bit in the case
Sven Asnien is an experienced woodworker, born and raised in Cleveland, Ohio. He began his woodworking career at Wooster College with theatrical carpentry, building sets and props for a traveling theatrical group. He continued to perfect his woodworking skills after college, working primarily on built-in cabinetry, wainscoting, and high-end finish carpentry. Sven establish Oz Woodworking to combine his love of woodworking and poker.
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and plans. This isn't your regular DIY.
Everything is laid
out perfectly for each project from start to finish. This is unlike anything
you've seen before. Watch the Free Video to see how
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make incredible volumes of money for the rest of your life. The 007
roulette program can and will provide a sound financial opportunity for you.
Most system sellers endorse a product where you lose your bankroll in
minutes when the wrong sequence of numbers or player error will deplete ALL of
your winnings in a few spins. Not the 007 strategy! You will be
amazed at the power of the system and the frequency of its wins.
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http://www.africapoint.com/jamaffiliates/jrox.php?id=556 Sunday, 22 September 2013
Saturday, 21 September 2013
Handmade Wood Furniture - Vermont is the Place to Shop
by: Peggy Farabaugh
Looking for authentic handmade wood furniture, made in the good 'ol USA? It's not so easy to find it anymore, is it? Most Americans think of North Carolina as the fine furniture capitol of the USA, but over the past 30 years, that has changed. The furniture companies we think of as being quintessentially American -- for example Thomasville, Broyhill, Ethan Allen and Lane -- no longer make much, if any furniture in the USA. Instead they outsource their furniture to factories in China, Vietnam and other third world countries.
So where does one go to find authentic, high quality, handmade wood furniture? It turns out that Vermont is now the fine furniture capitol of the country. By unofficial count, some 2000 small wood furniture makers dot the rural Vermont countryside, taking advantage of the heavily forested nature of our state for the supply of natural, eco-friendly raw materials.
Vermont has traditionally been home to a vibrant cottage industry of artisans, working in all types of media, including native hardwoods. Furniture makers from all around the globe flock to Vermont to practice their craft in the Green Mountain state. A thriving community of woodworkers has developed, bringing together Vermont families who have practiced woodworking for many generations and newcomers who have brought new and different aspects of the craft to the area.
Furniture aficionados will find Vermont furniture shopping to be quite a different experience than the routine trip to a neighborhood big box furniture store. Savvy customers are combining their furniture shopping with travel and tourism throughout Vermont's rural countryside. The autumn leaf-peeping season has become the time of choice to shop although visitors are welcomed year-round. To learn more about Vermont's handmade wood furniture, check out the Vermont Fine Furniture Festival, held in Woodstock every year during the last week of September. There you'll get an insider's view of how authentic fine wood furniture is made and why Vermont is truly the Fine Furniture Capitol of America.
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Looking for authentic handmade wood furniture, made in the good 'ol USA? It's not so easy to find it anymore, is it? Most Americans think of North Carolina as the fine furniture capitol of the USA, but over the past 30 years, that has changed. The furniture companies we think of as being quintessentially American -- for example Thomasville, Broyhill, Ethan Allen and Lane -- no longer make much, if any furniture in the USA. Instead they outsource their furniture to factories in China, Vietnam and other third world countries.
So where does one go to find authentic, high quality, handmade wood furniture? It turns out that Vermont is now the fine furniture capitol of the country. By unofficial count, some 2000 small wood furniture makers dot the rural Vermont countryside, taking advantage of the heavily forested nature of our state for the supply of natural, eco-friendly raw materials.
Vermont has traditionally been home to a vibrant cottage industry of artisans, working in all types of media, including native hardwoods. Furniture makers from all around the globe flock to Vermont to practice their craft in the Green Mountain state. A thriving community of woodworkers has developed, bringing together Vermont families who have practiced woodworking for many generations and newcomers who have brought new and different aspects of the craft to the area.
Furniture aficionados will find Vermont furniture shopping to be quite a different experience than the routine trip to a neighborhood big box furniture store. Savvy customers are combining their furniture shopping with travel and tourism throughout Vermont's rural countryside. The autumn leaf-peeping season has become the time of choice to shop although visitors are welcomed year-round. To learn more about Vermont's handmade wood furniture, check out the Vermont Fine Furniture Festival, held in Woodstock every year during the last week of September. There you'll get an insider's view of how authentic fine wood furniture is made and why Vermont is truly the Fine Furniture Capitol of America.
Peggy Farabaugh is owner of Vermont Woods Studios, purveyor of natural, eco-friendly fine furniture from Vermont. Each piece of this American furniture collection is made to order, from sustainably harvested wood, and can be customized to fit the customer's space and purpose. Custom furniture at catalog prices.
16,000+ Projects and Wood Working Plans
Indoor, outdoor,
large, small, simple or detailed, there is a wood working plan for you! In just
a few minutes you'll be able to get your hands on 16,000 wood working projects
and plans. This isn't your regular DIY.
Everything is laid
out perfectly for each project from start to finish. This is unlike anything
you've seen before. Watch the Free Video to see how
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The Safest Roulette System in the World
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make incredible volumes of money for the rest of your life. The 007
roulette program can and will provide a sound financial opportunity for you.
Most system sellers endorse a product where you lose your bankroll in
minutes when the wrong sequence of numbers or player error will deplete ALL of
your winnings in a few spins. Not the 007 strategy! You will be
amazed at the power of the system and the frequency of its wins.
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Thursday, 19 September 2013
Do's and Don'ts For Building a Platform Bed
by: Carl Daughtridge
When I set about building a platform bed, I was pretty much winging it. I did not consult anyone else, and I did not have anyone with past experience giving me advice. Since you are reading this article seeking advice on building your own platform bed, I would like to share some of my insight on the project. Take it from someone who built a bed the wrong way before choosing the right way; it is much easier, cheaper, and less painful to start out right.
Here, you will find my list of do's and don'ts for building your own platform bed. This list is based on my own experiences so you will find it to be very practical advice.
Do carefully consider the platform bed plans that you are choosing from. After all, this plan will be your guidance through the project. If you are new to building things, then you will definitely want to choose plans that are very thorough and that explain everything step by step and in detail. Otherwise, you could become confused halfway through the project.
Don't use free plans. I cannot say this enough. Learn from my experience and do not make this mistake. Free plans will not provide all of the information you need and you could very likely end up with a faulty bed. Please believe me on this and make the decision to buy quality plans.
Do choose quality materials. You are building a bed for yourself or a loved one. You do not want to use subpar materials just because you were trying to save a few dollars. Just as the plans are important, so are the materials. You do not have to spend an inordinate amount on extravagant type of wood. Just make sure the materials you choose are quality and durable.
Don't be afraid to ask someone else if you are confused. There is nothing wrong with getting a little advice, especially if you know someone with more experience than you. I did not get advice when I should have. If I had, then maybe I would not have lived through my fiasco of building the first bed all wrong. Then again, if I had not, I may not be here giving you advice now!
Do decide on the style of the bed before you ever cut a piece of wood. It is best to choose the style and then get the platform bed plans accordingly. If you choose very basic plans with the intent on upgrading as you see fit, you could run into problems, which could make you very unhappy.
Over all, building your own platform bed can be a rewarding and fun experience. Just remember these do's and don'ts so that you can make sure your experience is a good one. You do not have to make the same mistakes I did and you can build the perfect platform bed on your first try. Just keep in mind above all else that the plans you choose will be the key to building the best bed!
I built a fabulous platform bed for my son using a great set of high quality premium Platform Bed Plans. Feel free to check out my useful tips and advice for choosing woodworking plans at http://platformbedplansinfo.com
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When I set about building a platform bed, I was pretty much winging it. I did not consult anyone else, and I did not have anyone with past experience giving me advice. Since you are reading this article seeking advice on building your own platform bed, I would like to share some of my insight on the project. Take it from someone who built a bed the wrong way before choosing the right way; it is much easier, cheaper, and less painful to start out right.
Here, you will find my list of do's and don'ts for building your own platform bed. This list is based on my own experiences so you will find it to be very practical advice.
Do carefully consider the platform bed plans that you are choosing from. After all, this plan will be your guidance through the project. If you are new to building things, then you will definitely want to choose plans that are very thorough and that explain everything step by step and in detail. Otherwise, you could become confused halfway through the project.
Don't use free plans. I cannot say this enough. Learn from my experience and do not make this mistake. Free plans will not provide all of the information you need and you could very likely end up with a faulty bed. Please believe me on this and make the decision to buy quality plans.
Do choose quality materials. You are building a bed for yourself or a loved one. You do not want to use subpar materials just because you were trying to save a few dollars. Just as the plans are important, so are the materials. You do not have to spend an inordinate amount on extravagant type of wood. Just make sure the materials you choose are quality and durable.
Don't be afraid to ask someone else if you are confused. There is nothing wrong with getting a little advice, especially if you know someone with more experience than you. I did not get advice when I should have. If I had, then maybe I would not have lived through my fiasco of building the first bed all wrong. Then again, if I had not, I may not be here giving you advice now!
Do decide on the style of the bed before you ever cut a piece of wood. It is best to choose the style and then get the platform bed plans accordingly. If you choose very basic plans with the intent on upgrading as you see fit, you could run into problems, which could make you very unhappy.
Over all, building your own platform bed can be a rewarding and fun experience. Just remember these do's and don'ts so that you can make sure your experience is a good one. You do not have to make the same mistakes I did and you can build the perfect platform bed on your first try. Just keep in mind above all else that the plans you choose will be the key to building the best bed!
I built a fabulous platform bed for my son using a great set of high quality premium Platform Bed Plans. Feel free to check out my useful tips and advice for choosing woodworking plans at http://platformbedplansinfo.com
Carl is a retired manager for one of the world's top trucking companies. These days he is big into his woodworking hobby and gardening outdoors. He has just built a new platform bed using plans from a great woodworking library as seen at http://platformbedplansinfo.com
16,000+ Projects and Wood Working Plans
Indoor, outdoor,
large, small, simple or detailed, there is a wood working plan for you! In just
a few minutes you'll be able to get your hands on 16,000 wood working projects
and plans. This isn't your regular DIY.
Everything is laid
out perfectly for each project from start to finish. This is unlike anything
you've seen before. Watch the Free Video to see how
http://aq.be/f6b7b3
http://aq.be/f6b7b3
The Safest Roulette System in the World
If you are lucky enough to be one of the few
people to purchase my system I promise I’ll provide you with the opportunity to
make incredible volumes of money for the rest of your life. The 007
roulette program can and will provide a sound financial opportunity for you.
Most system sellers endorse a product where you lose your bankroll in
minutes when the wrong sequence of numbers or player error will deplete ALL of
your winnings in a few spins. Not the 007 strategy! You will be
amazed at the power of the system and the frequency of its wins.
http://aq.be/f0db09
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Tuesday, 17 September 2013
The Key To A Great Finish Is Surface Preparation
by: Megan Cherry
No matter what your current woodworking project may be, whether it is a built-in bookshelf or a simple jewelry box, to create a truly beautiful piece you must put on a proper finish. To create that lovely finish, it is necessary to prepare the surface properly. This doesn't mean you need to spend a large amount of time preparing it, however. You should divide surface preparation into three distinct stages for the most efficiency. Each stage will use different tools and methods of preparation. In the first and second stages, you will use abrasive tools like planes, scrapers and sandpaper. In the third stage, you will be using fillers and wood putty.
The first stage is the initial preparation. This is where you will be removing the majority of the material from your project. A wood plane is a very efficient tool for this stage. Planes will remove any marks left from machining your pieces of wood. Today, with the heavy use of power sanders, many people don't use wood planes anymore. This is really a sad state of affairs, since nothing evens out a surface like a plane. Power sanders tend to leave hills and valleys depending on the wood. Another old tool, the scraper, is a good tool to use at this stage. Scrapers were used before the invention of sandpaper, and it can actually still be used in place of sandpaper once you learn how to use it properly. Another benefit of using a scraper is it is easy to master, even for a beginner. Cabinet scrapers are adept at removing marks made by your power tools and can also level the surface nicely. A scraper is fairly simple to use. Simply push the scraper away from you while exerting downward pressure at the same time. It goes without saying that the piece you are working on should be held steady when you are using a scraper. The scraper should be kept sharp. You can tell when it needs attention... a sharp scraper will make very fine shavings, while a dull one will produce dust.
Today, sanding is the most popular way to smooth wood before putting on your finish. Sanding can be done manually or with a power sander. Power sanders vary from a simple palm sander to a large disc sander. Many woodworkers don't like to sand, and they dread having to do it. But sanding does not need to be a step to dread. If you follow easy steps in the proper order, it is very easy and efficient. Before sanding, be sure to remove any dried glue, since the glue will gum up your sandpaper. Sandpaper comes in many grits, from coarse to extremely fine. Start with a coarser paper if you have scratches from your power tools on your project. Then move on to a smaller grit. The smaller the grit, the higher number will be assigned to the sandpaper.
With all the machines available for sanding today, you may be surprised to hear of anyone doing manual sanding anymore. Hand sanding is a wonderful way to get a nice flat surface, however as well as being a great way to learn how to sand. If you start with a lower grit paper and sand in the direction of the wood grain, you can get a better finish than if you use an orbital sander, which sands in all directions. Directional sanding gives you the freedom to only remove what needs to be removed. Once you begin sanding, you'll move progressively from a coarser grit to a finer grit to the finest grit. This creates a smooth sheen to the surface of the wood. Don't skip grit sizes... if you do you'll waste a lot of time sanding out scratches from the coarser grits.
The easiest way to tell when you've removed all the scratches from your project is to wipe a light coating of mineral spirits over the wood. This will allow any imperfections or scratches left on the wood. Once you know where they are, you can easily work on removing them.
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No matter what your current woodworking project may be, whether it is a built-in bookshelf or a simple jewelry box, to create a truly beautiful piece you must put on a proper finish. To create that lovely finish, it is necessary to prepare the surface properly. This doesn't mean you need to spend a large amount of time preparing it, however. You should divide surface preparation into three distinct stages for the most efficiency. Each stage will use different tools and methods of preparation. In the first and second stages, you will use abrasive tools like planes, scrapers and sandpaper. In the third stage, you will be using fillers and wood putty.
The first stage is the initial preparation. This is where you will be removing the majority of the material from your project. A wood plane is a very efficient tool for this stage. Planes will remove any marks left from machining your pieces of wood. Today, with the heavy use of power sanders, many people don't use wood planes anymore. This is really a sad state of affairs, since nothing evens out a surface like a plane. Power sanders tend to leave hills and valleys depending on the wood. Another old tool, the scraper, is a good tool to use at this stage. Scrapers were used before the invention of sandpaper, and it can actually still be used in place of sandpaper once you learn how to use it properly. Another benefit of using a scraper is it is easy to master, even for a beginner. Cabinet scrapers are adept at removing marks made by your power tools and can also level the surface nicely. A scraper is fairly simple to use. Simply push the scraper away from you while exerting downward pressure at the same time. It goes without saying that the piece you are working on should be held steady when you are using a scraper. The scraper should be kept sharp. You can tell when it needs attention... a sharp scraper will make very fine shavings, while a dull one will produce dust.
Today, sanding is the most popular way to smooth wood before putting on your finish. Sanding can be done manually or with a power sander. Power sanders vary from a simple palm sander to a large disc sander. Many woodworkers don't like to sand, and they dread having to do it. But sanding does not need to be a step to dread. If you follow easy steps in the proper order, it is very easy and efficient. Before sanding, be sure to remove any dried glue, since the glue will gum up your sandpaper. Sandpaper comes in many grits, from coarse to extremely fine. Start with a coarser paper if you have scratches from your power tools on your project. Then move on to a smaller grit. The smaller the grit, the higher number will be assigned to the sandpaper.
With all the machines available for sanding today, you may be surprised to hear of anyone doing manual sanding anymore. Hand sanding is a wonderful way to get a nice flat surface, however as well as being a great way to learn how to sand. If you start with a lower grit paper and sand in the direction of the wood grain, you can get a better finish than if you use an orbital sander, which sands in all directions. Directional sanding gives you the freedom to only remove what needs to be removed. Once you begin sanding, you'll move progressively from a coarser grit to a finer grit to the finest grit. This creates a smooth sheen to the surface of the wood. Don't skip grit sizes... if you do you'll waste a lot of time sanding out scratches from the coarser grits.
The easiest way to tell when you've removed all the scratches from your project is to wipe a light coating of mineral spirits over the wood. This will allow any imperfections or scratches left on the wood. Once you know where they are, you can easily work on removing them.
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