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Monday, 30 September 2013
Sunday, 29 September 2013
Choosing A Top Coat For Your Woodworking Project
by: Megan Cherry
When you're done with your woodworking project, of course you want to protect it. A top coat protects the finish of your project, as well as the wood itself. If you leave the wood (and any stain or paint you've used) as it is, it's likely to get scratched or dirty, and will also get damaged by watermarks if it comes into contact with moisture. By using a good wood finish, you'll keep your wood and its finish clean and protected, and prevent it from damage, wear and tear. You can apply a clear finish so as to accentuate the grain, or even give it a "wet look" if you like. In general, unfinished wood will develop a dull matte texture that will not show off the grain.
No matter the woodworking project you're working on, there are two basic finishes you can apply. The first is called an "evaporated finish." With this type of finish, it "cures" and becomes hard simply by drying. These types of finishes include lacquers and water-based finishes. You can soften these finishes with heat; therefore, they are given the name "thermoplastic."
The second type of wood finish is called a "reactive finish." This is cured by allowing it to react with another component, such as air, or with another chemical added just prior to the finish's application. Some examples of these include oils in oil-based varnishes or catalyzed lacquers. These types of finishes are called "thermosetting finishes." Unlike the thermoplastic finishes, these finishes are not softened with heat or with the original solvent used.
Within the reactive finishes are two different types of oil finishes. These are oils that dry when exposed to air or oils that do not dry when exposed to air. In example of an oil that does not dry when exposed to air is mineral oil, or baby oil. Those that do dry protect would better than those that don't dry. Therefore, usually, the ones that do dry should be used to finish your wood project.
Most often, linseed or tung oil is used to finish wood. These are distinguished from other types of wood products because they are "true" oils. Both penetrate the finish, which means that they enter the wood fibers themselves. Then they harden within the wood, which makes them the easiest to apply. Simply wipe down wood with them to allow them to penetrate the wood for a few minutes, and then wipe off the excess with a clean rag. If you apply several coats, you will not build up a hard film like you might with a varnish or lacquer, because the film itself dries to a very soft and smooth sheen.
Linseed oil is made from the flax plant. The oil itself is pressed from the plant. It is available both in on refined (also called "raw") form or in refined form. Unrefined linseed oil dries quite slowly and is usually not used on wood. By contrast, boiled linseed oil is thicker and dries more quickly. Usually, the boiled linseed oils available today also have chemical additives to speed up the drying time, which makes them much more suitable for finishing wood.
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When you're done with your woodworking project, of course you want to protect it. A top coat protects the finish of your project, as well as the wood itself. If you leave the wood (and any stain or paint you've used) as it is, it's likely to get scratched or dirty, and will also get damaged by watermarks if it comes into contact with moisture. By using a good wood finish, you'll keep your wood and its finish clean and protected, and prevent it from damage, wear and tear. You can apply a clear finish so as to accentuate the grain, or even give it a "wet look" if you like. In general, unfinished wood will develop a dull matte texture that will not show off the grain.
No matter the woodworking project you're working on, there are two basic finishes you can apply. The first is called an "evaporated finish." With this type of finish, it "cures" and becomes hard simply by drying. These types of finishes include lacquers and water-based finishes. You can soften these finishes with heat; therefore, they are given the name "thermoplastic."
The second type of wood finish is called a "reactive finish." This is cured by allowing it to react with another component, such as air, or with another chemical added just prior to the finish's application. Some examples of these include oils in oil-based varnishes or catalyzed lacquers. These types of finishes are called "thermosetting finishes." Unlike the thermoplastic finishes, these finishes are not softened with heat or with the original solvent used.
Within the reactive finishes are two different types of oil finishes. These are oils that dry when exposed to air or oils that do not dry when exposed to air. In example of an oil that does not dry when exposed to air is mineral oil, or baby oil. Those that do dry protect would better than those that don't dry. Therefore, usually, the ones that do dry should be used to finish your wood project.
Most often, linseed or tung oil is used to finish wood. These are distinguished from other types of wood products because they are "true" oils. Both penetrate the finish, which means that they enter the wood fibers themselves. Then they harden within the wood, which makes them the easiest to apply. Simply wipe down wood with them to allow them to penetrate the wood for a few minutes, and then wipe off the excess with a clean rag. If you apply several coats, you will not build up a hard film like you might with a varnish or lacquer, because the film itself dries to a very soft and smooth sheen.
Linseed oil is made from the flax plant. The oil itself is pressed from the plant. It is available both in on refined (also called "raw") form or in refined form. Unrefined linseed oil dries quite slowly and is usually not used on wood. By contrast, boiled linseed oil is thicker and dries more quickly. Usually, the boiled linseed oils available today also have chemical additives to speed up the drying time, which makes them much more suitable for finishing wood.
Megan Cherry writes for http://www.pegandrail.com If you are looking for a high quality well made coat rack step in and check us out, we manufacture a complete line of wall mounted coat rack from a shaker peg style coat rack to a modern wall coat rack with brass hooks or satin nickel for the brushed stainless steel look we even have a very modern looking hand rub white lacquer coat racks to go along with our line of Oak, cherry and Maple wall coat racks, we can even manufacture you a custom size coat rack or even ship you a coat rack that is unfinished.
16,000+ Projects and Wood Working Plans
Indoor, outdoor,
large, small, simple or detailed, there is a wood working plan for you! In just
a few minutes you'll be able to get your hands on 16,000 wood working projects
and plans. This isn't your regular DIY.
Everything is laid
out perfectly for each project from start to finish. This is unlike anything
you've seen before. Watch the Free Video to see how
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Friday, 27 September 2013
Filling In The Pores To Create A "Piano Finish"
by: Megan Cherry
Since ultimately all woodworking projects are judged by their finish, you may want to consider adding a touch of elegance to your own project by filling the pores of the wood. Filling the pores creates a finish that is as smooth as glass. No matter what you are making, if you are serious about woodworking, you will want to learn how to fill pores to create this lovely finish. Some species of wood have more pores of larger size than others. An example would be to compare Maple, which has very few and very small pores with Oak, which has larger pores in greater quantity. While Maple may not need to have the pores filled to create a nice finish, if you want that smooth finish with Oak, pore filling is a necessity.
Today, there are two basic types of fillers on the market: oil-based and water-based. Oil-based fillers have been used for generations, and over the years they have been refined and are now easier to apply than they used to be. Oil-based fillers come in two types: a true oil-based filler, or one mixed with varnish. The real difference between the two lies in the time required for drying before a protective surface coat can be applied. True oil-based fillers may need several days to dry between applications, while a varnish filler has the possibility of being ready for its topcoat in only a few hours. You can apply your oil-based filler directly onto the bare wood. You can choose either a natural color that will match the wood, or one that contains a stain or a color. Using this technique, the filler becomes both a filler and a stain. Japan colors can be applied this way. The other method would be to apply the stain to the wood first. When it is dry, you seal it with a finish, and then apply the filler. Using this method, the filler only fills the pores that were not fully covered by the top coat.
The look you get is controlled by your method of application. If you apply the filler to bare wood, the filler will color both the wood and the pores, while application after sealing only colors the pores.
A thin sealing coat will let a little bit of color from the filler affect the wood surface, while a thicker coat will protect the wood completely, allowing the filler to only affect the pores. Be sure to sand the area well before applying the filler. Use a 320 grit sandpaper.
Before you apply filler to your woodworking project, make sure it is clean. Don't leave any dirt or dust behind. You can apply the filler by hand or spray it on. If you choose to apply it by hand, be sure to use a brush with very stiff bristles so the filler is forced into the pores. When you have finished applying the filler to an area of your project, be sure to squeegee off the excess immediately. If you don't have a commercially made squeegee, and old credit card or other item with a firm flat edge will work just as well. When the filler is dry, use cheesecloth or a wadded piece of burlap to wipe off any excess that remains.
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Since ultimately all woodworking projects are judged by their finish, you may want to consider adding a touch of elegance to your own project by filling the pores of the wood. Filling the pores creates a finish that is as smooth as glass. No matter what you are making, if you are serious about woodworking, you will want to learn how to fill pores to create this lovely finish. Some species of wood have more pores of larger size than others. An example would be to compare Maple, which has very few and very small pores with Oak, which has larger pores in greater quantity. While Maple may not need to have the pores filled to create a nice finish, if you want that smooth finish with Oak, pore filling is a necessity.
Today, there are two basic types of fillers on the market: oil-based and water-based. Oil-based fillers have been used for generations, and over the years they have been refined and are now easier to apply than they used to be. Oil-based fillers come in two types: a true oil-based filler, or one mixed with varnish. The real difference between the two lies in the time required for drying before a protective surface coat can be applied. True oil-based fillers may need several days to dry between applications, while a varnish filler has the possibility of being ready for its topcoat in only a few hours. You can apply your oil-based filler directly onto the bare wood. You can choose either a natural color that will match the wood, or one that contains a stain or a color. Using this technique, the filler becomes both a filler and a stain. Japan colors can be applied this way. The other method would be to apply the stain to the wood first. When it is dry, you seal it with a finish, and then apply the filler. Using this method, the filler only fills the pores that were not fully covered by the top coat.
The look you get is controlled by your method of application. If you apply the filler to bare wood, the filler will color both the wood and the pores, while application after sealing only colors the pores.
A thin sealing coat will let a little bit of color from the filler affect the wood surface, while a thicker coat will protect the wood completely, allowing the filler to only affect the pores. Be sure to sand the area well before applying the filler. Use a 320 grit sandpaper.
Before you apply filler to your woodworking project, make sure it is clean. Don't leave any dirt or dust behind. You can apply the filler by hand or spray it on. If you choose to apply it by hand, be sure to use a brush with very stiff bristles so the filler is forced into the pores. When you have finished applying the filler to an area of your project, be sure to squeegee off the excess immediately. If you don't have a commercially made squeegee, and old credit card or other item with a firm flat edge will work just as well. When the filler is dry, use cheesecloth or a wadded piece of burlap to wipe off any excess that remains.
Megan Cherry writes for http://www.pegandrail.com If you are looking for a high quality well made coat rack step in and check us out, we manufacture a complete line of wall mounted coat rack from a shaker peg style coat rack to a modern wall coat rack with brass hooks or satin nickel for the brushed stainless steel look we even have a very modern looking hand rub white lacquer coat racks to go along with our line of Oak, cherry and Maple wall coat racks, we can even manufacture you a custom size coat rack or even ship you a coat rack that is unfinished.
16,000+ Projects and Wood Working Plans
Indoor, outdoor,
large, small, simple or detailed, there is a wood working plan for you! In just
a few minutes you'll be able to get your hands on 16,000 wood working projects
and plans. This isn't your regular DIY.
Everything is laid
out perfectly for each project from start to finish. This is unlike anything
you've seen before. Watch the Free Video to see how
http://aq.be/f6b7b3
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The Safest Roulette System in the World
If you are lucky enough to be one of the few
people to purchase my system I promise I’ll provide you with the opportunity to
make incredible volumes of money for the rest of your life. The 007
roulette program can and will provide a sound financial opportunity for you.
Most system sellers endorse a product where you lose your bankroll in
minutes when the wrong sequence of numbers or player error will deplete ALL of
your winnings in a few spins. Not the 007 strategy! You will be
amazed at the power of the system and the frequency of its wins.
http://aq.be/f0db09
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10 Power Tools Every Handyman Should Own
by: Michiel Van Kets
Every handyman knows you need the right tool to do the right job, but with so many tools to choose from how do you know that you're prepared for almost anything? Here's our list of the top 10 power tools every handyman should own.
The power drill.
From hanging pictures to building a treehouse or even building a real house a power drill on your hip means you're ready to do business. Make sure that your power drill is ready for any job by having a set of variable size and use bits. Even the most basic set of drill bits should have concrete, metal and wood bits which should cover almost any job. A drill with a "hammer" setting can be extremely useful when dealing with missionary, concrete, or stone.
Circular saw.
A circular saw can be extremely helpful in doing most of the cutting your average handyman needs doing. Modern blades with carbonized tips can chew through almost any job and seemingly lasts forever.
Reciprocating saw.
For those jobs where your handy circular saw just don't cut it the insatiable reciprocating saw is ready to step up to bat. Most useful as a demolition device the reciprocating saw is good for standing up or over your head jobs and is your best choice for cutting holes in existing walls.
Jigsaw.
Rounding out your power saw collection the ever useful and oh so precise jigsaw cuts a fine line between the flexibility of the reciprocating saw and the precision of the circular saw. The small fine blade of your jigsaw is perfect for tight cuts and finish work. If you are planning on doing any elaborate woodworking a jigsaw in your tool collection is a must.
Router.
When you need to get into the middle of something a router will get you there. For fine woodworking router can't be beat as it allows you to make smooth cuts in the center of the piece of wood leaving the surrounding sides intact. It is also a good tool for cutting grooves along the edge of the wood.
Power hand plane.
Essential for smoothing and thinning wood a power hand plane trims miniscule layers off of wood in a flat and even amount. This can be particularly useful in hanging doors and fitting windows. Even in simple projects like a worktable or outdoor deck, a planed surface can make a real professional impression.
Orbital hand sander.
If you are interested in saving hours of backbreaking work an orbital hand sander should be in your toolbox. Using spinning round discs of sandpaper this infinitely useful tool can put a fine smooth finish on almost any piece of woodworking. It is probably one the most time saving tool on the list as anyone who has ever done hours and hours of tedious sanding will tell you.
Table saw.
If you want to get really serious about your woodworking then you need one more saw in your workshop and that is the mighty table saw. A bit intimidating to the weekend warrior but once you learn your way around your table saw and begin to explore the multiplicity of uses it provides you will never be without one again. The only real tool for handling large cutting jobs the table saw is the heart of any serious woodworkers tool shop. Just make sure you get lessons on how to use it while you still have 10 fingers!
Angle grinder.
If you are going to be working with metal, and what serious handy man is not, then you will need something more than an orbital hand sander to get those welds and edges smoothed. An angle grinder is to metal as sandpaper is to wood, without it your metal working jobs will always be plagued by sharp and jagged edges.
Wet dry shop vac.
A serious handyman always makes a serious mess with a wet dry shop vac you'll be able to clean up all the sawdust your mighty table saw generates while retaining the ability to suck up all the drips and drops from your plumbing repairs. Online power tool sales and rental companies offer wet dry power vacs in a variety of sizes so there's no excuse not to have one of your own!
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![]()
Every handyman knows you need the right tool to do the right job, but with so many tools to choose from how do you know that you're prepared for almost anything? Here's our list of the top 10 power tools every handyman should own.
The power drill.
From hanging pictures to building a treehouse or even building a real house a power drill on your hip means you're ready to do business. Make sure that your power drill is ready for any job by having a set of variable size and use bits. Even the most basic set of drill bits should have concrete, metal and wood bits which should cover almost any job. A drill with a "hammer" setting can be extremely useful when dealing with missionary, concrete, or stone.
Circular saw.
A circular saw can be extremely helpful in doing most of the cutting your average handyman needs doing. Modern blades with carbonized tips can chew through almost any job and seemingly lasts forever.
Reciprocating saw.
For those jobs where your handy circular saw just don't cut it the insatiable reciprocating saw is ready to step up to bat. Most useful as a demolition device the reciprocating saw is good for standing up or over your head jobs and is your best choice for cutting holes in existing walls.
Jigsaw.
Rounding out your power saw collection the ever useful and oh so precise jigsaw cuts a fine line between the flexibility of the reciprocating saw and the precision of the circular saw. The small fine blade of your jigsaw is perfect for tight cuts and finish work. If you are planning on doing any elaborate woodworking a jigsaw in your tool collection is a must.
Router.
When you need to get into the middle of something a router will get you there. For fine woodworking router can't be beat as it allows you to make smooth cuts in the center of the piece of wood leaving the surrounding sides intact. It is also a good tool for cutting grooves along the edge of the wood.
Power hand plane.
Essential for smoothing and thinning wood a power hand plane trims miniscule layers off of wood in a flat and even amount. This can be particularly useful in hanging doors and fitting windows. Even in simple projects like a worktable or outdoor deck, a planed surface can make a real professional impression.
Orbital hand sander.
If you are interested in saving hours of backbreaking work an orbital hand sander should be in your toolbox. Using spinning round discs of sandpaper this infinitely useful tool can put a fine smooth finish on almost any piece of woodworking. It is probably one the most time saving tool on the list as anyone who has ever done hours and hours of tedious sanding will tell you.
Table saw.
If you want to get really serious about your woodworking then you need one more saw in your workshop and that is the mighty table saw. A bit intimidating to the weekend warrior but once you learn your way around your table saw and begin to explore the multiplicity of uses it provides you will never be without one again. The only real tool for handling large cutting jobs the table saw is the heart of any serious woodworkers tool shop. Just make sure you get lessons on how to use it while you still have 10 fingers!
Angle grinder.
If you are going to be working with metal, and what serious handy man is not, then you will need something more than an orbital hand sander to get those welds and edges smoothed. An angle grinder is to metal as sandpaper is to wood, without it your metal working jobs will always be plagued by sharp and jagged edges.
Wet dry shop vac.
A serious handyman always makes a serious mess with a wet dry shop vac you'll be able to clean up all the sawdust your mighty table saw generates while retaining the ability to suck up all the drips and drops from your plumbing repairs. Online power tool sales and rental companies offer wet dry power vacs in a variety of sizes so there's no excuse not to have one of your own!
Michiel Van Kets writes articles for Online Power Tools, an online shop for garden tools, ladders, Power Tools Online and more. They aim to provide the best online store and shopping experience with UKs leading team of Search Engine Marketing company.
http://www.i-fluid.co.uk/
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16,000+ Projects and Wood Working Plans
Indoor, outdoor,
large, small, simple or detailed, there is a wood working plan for you! In just
a few minutes you'll be able to get your hands on 16,000 wood working projects
and plans. This isn't your regular DIY.
Everything is laid
out perfectly for each project from start to finish. This is unlike anything
you've seen before. Watch the Free Video to see how
http://aq.be/f6b7b3
http://aq.be/f6b7b3
The Safest Roulette System in the World
If you are lucky enough to be one of the few
people to purchase my system I promise I’ll provide you with the opportunity to
make incredible volumes of money for the rest of your life. The 007
roulette program can and will provide a sound financial opportunity for you.
Most system sellers endorse a product where you lose your bankroll in
minutes when the wrong sequence of numbers or player error will deplete ALL of
your winnings in a few spins. Not the 007 strategy! You will be
amazed at the power of the system and the frequency of its wins.
http://aq.be/f0db09
http://aq.be/f0db09
Join Our Online Fitness Training Program
Workout when you want 24/7 program from anywhere youchoose no more rushing to the gym or watching the timehttp://www.1shoppingcart.com/app/?af=1557914
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http://www.africapoint.com/jamaffiliates/jrox.php?id=556Wednesday, 25 September 2013
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